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As a consumer, you want to have options in comparison. You want things to be easy.
作为一名消费者，你希望有比较、选择的空间，希望能够轻轻松松买到自己想要的产品。
I want to be able to walk into a store and see myself represented.
当我走进一家店的时候，我希望自己有被代表。
Over the past few years, mainstream beauty companies have been making an effort to be more inclusive.
过去几年，主流的美妆品牌都在争取变得更加包容。
But why is it taking them so long to get it right?
可是，为什么这么久才回头呢？
When it comes to beauty, they’re usually based on very narrow ideas of what constitutes beautiful.
谈到美这个概念，它们通常都是基于一些非常狭隘的审美标准。
And even if there are a wider range of women who are demanding products,
尽管有产品需求的女性范围更广了，
a wider range of consumers who want to see themselves reflected
尽管希望产品也适合自己，
and are willing to pay money to get these products,
并且愿意花钱买这些产品的消费者越来越多
many brands are unwilling to cater to them in fears that it will damage their brand,
很多品牌还是不愿意迎合他们的消费需求，因为他们害怕这样会有损品牌形象，
in fears that it will make their brand less glamorous, less beautiful,
害怕这样会让品牌看起来没有那么美丽，那么光彩照人
if it’s attached to black women, if it's attached to darker skin women.
加入他们将品牌与黑人女性联系在一起，与深色皮肤的女性联系在一起的话。
The beauty industry has a long history of only catering to a very specific type of person.
美妆行业一直以来都只迎合了某种特定类型的消费者。
In the late 1940s, makeup for black women was available,
二十世纪40年代晚期就出现了针对黑人女性的美妆产品，
but beauty companies still focused on skin lightening products for black women.
但品牌们还是将精力集中在提亮黑人女性肤色的产品上。
We begin to see, really in the 1970s, an attempt to begin to show a wider range of beauty when it comes to makeup products.
到二十世纪70年代，我们才真正开始看到美妆产品开始展现类型更丰富的美。
It’s when the cultural movement “Black is Beautiful” began to rise as a celebration of blackness in the African American community.
那个时候正是非裔美国人内部开始掀起“黑即是美”运动，赞美黑人的民族自豪感的时候。
Robert Williams, a leading figure in American psychology,
美国心理学界的领袖人物Robert Williams
wrote, “The Black-is-Beautiful movement and the all-out effort to instill racial pride in black people
写道，“黑即是美运动以及黑人们全力以赴为自己争取种族自豪感的努力
have done much to neutralize and offset much of the damaging effects of oppression from being black.”
很大程度上缓解甚至抵消了很多针对黑人的压迫带来的伤害。”
The movement, was not only a response to colorism in the Black community, but also the prevalent racism in wider American culture.
这一运动不仅仅是在反抗黑人社区的肤色歧视，也是在反抗更广大的美国文化里普遍存在的种族歧视。
That movement brought a change in the beauty industry too — more products were being created for the black community.
这一运动也改变了美妆行业——针对黑人群体的产品更多了。
And a lot of that really came from black-owned companies themselves.
而且，这些产品很多都是黑人群体自己的品牌。
Companies like Fashion Fair cosmetics, which was developed by the Johnson Publishing Company, which was the publishing company behind Ebony [magazine], for example.
乌木杂志背后的约翰逊出版公司推出的时尚平等彩妆就是一个例子。
Drugstore brands like Maybelline had Shades of You in the 90s, Black Opal had products that catered to women of color starting in 1994,
90年代，美宝莲等药妆品牌退出了“你的色号”，黑欧泊1994年开始也推出了针对有色人种女性的产品。
Iman began selling in discount retailers in 2004, and Covergirl had the Queen Collection in 2006.
2004年依曼开始在打折零售店里销售，2006年，封面女孩也推出了女王系列。
Then you had luxury brands like NARS, MAC, Bobbi Brown, Black-Up and Make Up For Ever offering even more shades of brown at higher prices.
纳斯彩妆、魅可、芭比波朗、黑尚和玫珂菲等高端品牌也推出了更多色号的棕色粉底，价格也更贵。
But it hasn’t always been a smooth ride for all of these brands.
然而，这些品牌并非都做的顺风顺水。
L’Oréal faced controversy when it was accused of whitewashing Beyonce in its 2008 campaign.
欧莱雅就曾因为在2008年的活动中提亮碧昂斯的肤色被指控而陷入了争议。
In 2016, MAC launched their “Vibe Tribe” collection which at worst is cultural appropriation and at best is pretty culturally insensitive......yep.
2016年，魅可发布的“活力部落”系列说难听点儿就是文化剽窃，说好听点儿也不过是对文化有点儿了解……没错。
While mainstream brands have missed the mark, independent beauty brands have successfully filled the gaps.
主流品牌错失良机，自主美妆品牌则成功地填补了市场空缺。
Brands like koyVoca, Cocotique and The Lip Bar all offer extensive products for women of color.
koyVoca, Cocotique和The Lip Bar等品牌都推出了针对非白人女性的高价产品。
The gap between mainstream and independent brands is also evident in the way they reach their audience.
高端大牌和独立品牌另一个显著的区别就是他们与消费者互动的方式。
While major brands still turn to traditional advertising on TV and in magazines, a lot of independent creators rely heavily on social media.
就在大牌们仍旧依靠传统的电视广告和杂志广告营销时，很多独立品牌早已深入社交媒体。
Social media has changed the beauty industry in tremendous ways.
社交媒体深深地改变了美妆行业。
What is really interesting is that if you go on social media, there are lots of women.
真正有意思的是社交媒体上有很多女性用户，
some of whom are professionally trained makeup artists, some women who like make up who have huge followings.
有些用户是接受过专业训练的化妆师，有些则是有着大量粉丝的美妆爱好者。
And they have followings of people who will listen to what they say.
这些粉丝都会听取他们的意见。
And so it’s much more intimate than having, for example, just a celebrity at the front of your campaigns,
所以，比起那种让明星来给你站台，这种互动方式更加亲密。
which is often what Covergirl, and L'Oréal and many of the big companies have done.
然而，包括封面女孩、欧莱雅在内的很多大品牌选择的都是让明星站台。
Brands can try to copy Rihanna’s marketing but there’s more to it than that.
其他品牌可以尝试借鉴日日的营销策略，虽然值得借鉴的远不止这一点。
“If I love it, I’m going to go all the way to the end about it.
我热爱一件事情我就会全力以赴，会一直坚持下去。
And I dabbled in makeup before, but this is like my vision from the ground up.
以前我也尝试过做这方面的事，但这一次从头到尾我都有参与。
From the textures to the foundation shades, to the names..."
从使用感的测试到粉底色号的设置到品牌的命名……”
I have a hundred percent involvement in this process."
我是有百分百地参与到了这个过程的。”
Even if Rihanna’s makeup line doesn’t live up to the hype over time,
即便随着时间的流逝，日日的彩妆线可能脱离人们的期望
there’s no denying that Fenty is causing a much-needed stir in the beauty industry.
然而，不可否认的是，Fenty及时地给美妆行业带来了它迫切需要的冲击。
