评论
打印
What does perfect skin look like to you?
你觉得……什么样的皮肤才算完美？
Perfect skin is just being at a point where I don't feel self-conscious about people looking at me,
完美的皮肤差不多就是那种大家看我的时候我不会因此害羞的皮肤吧，
'Cause I used to have such bad anxiety when my acne was bad, about people seeing it.
因为以前痘痘很严重的时候我就有这种焦虑。
Like, perfect skin would have to have freckles, 'Cause that's kind of what I see as myself.
完美的皮肤应该是有一些小雀斑的，这是我个人的看法啊。
I guess, like, just like really low-maintenance?
我想，应该是那种不怎么需要保养的皮肤吧。
My idea of perfect skin is healthy skin.
在我看来，完美的皮肤就是健康的皮肤。
Not having any active breakouts... I can kind of go without foundation is kind of perfect skin for me.
没有任何活跃的痘痘……不用擦粉底就能出门的那种皮肤对我来说就是完美的皮肤。
Every couple of years, there's a magical cure-all beauty ingredient to give you amazing clear glowing skin.
每隔几年，市面上就会出一种神奇的全效美容成分，帮助大家拥有清透亮泽，令人惊艳的肌肤。
Right now those ingredients are acids.
现在流行的这些成分都是酸类成分。
Acids to erase wrinkles, to smooth your skin, to tighten your skin, to rid your skin of pimples, to make your skin look like glass.
酸可以消除皱纹，抚平皮肤，收紧皮肤，去除皮肤上的青春痘，使皮肤看起来像玻璃一样晶莹透亮。
But with a bunch of acids to choose from, how are you supposed to know which ones won't leave your face looking like beef carpaccio?
问题是，那么多可供选择的酸，你怎么知道哪些不会让你的脸看起来像生牛肉片儿呢？
This one says it's for exfoliation, we've got something for hydration, something for brightening,
这款产品说是用来去角质的，这个是保湿的，这个是提亮的，
this one refines the appearance of pore size, skin texture, and fine lines.
这一款则是改善毛孔大小，皮肤纹理和细纹的。
I know just, like, trying to use them and do this stuff, there is literally no guide for anything.
我知道去试着用这些东西，但我根本就找不到这方面的指导。
I find that really hard because I have no idea if I can put on a vitamin C after doing a complete acid peel.
我觉得很困难是因为我不知道这个果酸换肤之后能不能贴维C面膜。
Like, is that allowed? Who do I contact? I mean, I read so many forums, so.
可以这样吗？我应该联系谁？所以我翻了好多好多论坛。
Overwhelmed yet? I know I am.
感到窒息了吗？反正我已经要窒息了。
I went to a dermatologist's office to get some answers.
我去咨询了皮肤科的医生。
So chemical peels and skin care acids are pretty much synonymous.
化学换肤和护肤酸差不多是一个概念。
A peel is a procedure, so it's the notion of taking off or peeling a layer of the skin, but the acid is the actual tool that we use.
换肤是一个过程，就是剥去一层皮肤的概念，酸则是我们实际使用的工具。
Acids that you use in the over-the-counter market are different and weaker than the ones that we use in the office for medical procedures.
您在OTC市场中买到的与我们在办公室用于医疗的酸不一样也更温和。
The popular at-home acids are alphahydroxy, betahydroxy, and for the sensitive skin folks, polyhydroxy.
常见的家用酸有α-羟基酸（果酸），β-羟基酸（水杨酸），以及适用于敏感肤质的多羟基酸(PHA)。
AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid exfoliate the skin on its surface, removing layers of dead cells and reducing the appearance of acne scars, fine lines, and dark spots.
乙醇酸和乳酸之类的果酸可以去除皮肤表层部分，从而带走死皮，减少痤疮疤痕，细纹和黑斑的出现。
BHAs or salicylic acid can go beneath the skin surface to clean out excess oil and has anti-inflammatory properties.
水杨酸能够渗入皮肤内部清除多余的油脂，还具有抗炎症的作用。
Basically good for those who are more acne prone.
通常更适合痘痘肌。
PHAs are the gentler acids used for exfoliation.
多羟基酸是较温和的去角质酸。
They also attract water molecules which then moisturize your skin.
它们还能锁住水分子，从而滋润肌肤。
There are other stronger acids like trichloroacetic acid,
除此之外，还有三氯乙酸之类的强酸，
but they're considered too dangerous for at-home products and are only supposed to be used by licensed professionals.
但人们认为，这些酸太过危险，不适于家用，只有有执照的专业人士才能使用。
I am here today to get an acid peel of some kind.
我今天是来做这个什么果酸换肤手术的。
I guess I'm a little bit nervous, because every time I've mentioned to people that I'm going to get an acid peel,
我感觉我还是有点小紧张，因为每次我跟大家说我要去做果酸换肤的时候，
they remind me of the infamous Sex in the City scene, where Samantha gets a peel and it's just like, her skin is falling off of her face.
他们就会提醒我《欲望都市》里萨曼莎去做换肤，结果感觉她的皮肤都要从她脸上掉下来了似的那个场景。
Hi, I've had a chemical peel.
你好，我做了个化学换肤手术。
I'm Carrie's publicist.
我是嘉莉的公关。
The first step is the pre-peel cleanser to remove any remaining dirt, oils, or makeup.
第一步是换肤前的清洁工作，就是去除脸上残留的任何污垢，油分或化妆品。
Next a low strength glycolic acid is applied.
接下来涂上低浓度的乙醇酸。
Now, this part is a mix of citric and mandelic acid along with other ingredients.
现在这个环节是用柠檬酸，扁桃酸以及其他成分的混合物。
The last layer is trichloroacetic acid.
最后一层涂的是三氯乙酸。
Using cotton swabs, the doctor goes over Ashley's problem areas.
医生用棉签蘸上三氯乙酸点在艾希莉问题肌肤的位置。
Face rinse included, the procedure took less than 15 minutes.
包括面部冲洗，这个过程只用了不到15分钟。
I looked in the mirror and I was like, whaaaaat.
我看着镜子，当时感觉就是，什么……
Just feels so much brighter and things that I just kind of thought were freckles I guess are not freckles, they're skin damage and they're gone!
整个脸感觉变亮了，以前我以为是雀斑，其实是皮肤受损了的那些东西都不见了！
So, I'm excited to see what happens to my acne scarring, because I already feel it's a little lighter so I'm pretty excited to wake up tomorrow morning.
我迫不及待地想看我脸上的痘印还在不在，因为我已经感觉到那些痘印变小了，好期待明天早上醒来的样子啊。
But depending on your skin, how much acid you use, and the time it's left on, the side effects can be less appealing.
然而，根据你的皮肤，你所使用的酸的量，以及它在脸上停留的时间，果酸换肤的副作用可能就不那么吸引人了。
If you use peels too much, whether it's at home or in the office, it is not safe.
如果您下手太重，无论是在家还是在医院，都会不安全。
Excessive use of peels will weaken your skin.
果酸换肤过度就会使皮肤受损。
It's gonna slowly peel off the top layer and make the skin thinner.
它会慢慢剥掉你表层的皮肤，让皮肤变薄。
When you use stronger acids without medical supervision, there's a higher risk of accidentally giving yourself a chemical burn.
如果您在没有医生监督的情况下用了强酸，你不小心让自己的皮肤被化学烫伤的几率就会更高。
The FDA in the cosmetic realm likes to put a limit at about 10%.
FDA给化妆品领域的酸的浓度设置的上限在10％左右。
Having said that, you go on any website and you're gonna be able to find percentages that are higher.
话虽如此，我们去任何网站都能找到超出这一浓度的酸。
Again, if you're just starting out at this, stick to a product that's around 10%.
重申一遍，如果你才刚刚开始用果酸，请坚持使用浓度在10％左右的产品。
Whether you use acids or not, good skincare routines start with prevention and protection.
无论您是否用酸，正确的护肤操作都是预防加保护双管齐下。
The number one rule is to wear sunscreen.
最重要的是要涂防晒。
Like, every day.
每天都要涂。
Although some people will see the benefits in using acids .
虽然有些人能体会到酸的好处。
It's azelaic acid. It's the first skin acid I've ever tried.
我用的是壬二酸（杜鹃花酸）。这也是我用的第一款护肤酸。
And because I'm getting such good results with it, I'm not too keen on switching it up.
因为我用之后的效果实在是太好了，所以我不是很想换用别的。
I tried it, and I started seeing that it actually really worked.
我试了一下，结果真的起作用了。
It made me feel so good. Like it really gave me a boost of confidence that I didn't know I needed.
我觉得非常非常好。它让我的自信心有了很大的提升，虽然我之前并不觉得我需要这种自信。
Others don't.
其他人则体会不到。
Everybody's really into like salicylic acid.It's not doing it for me.
大家都很迷水杨酸，但我用了就没什么效果。
Somedays I feel like okay, that didn't do anything. And other days I put it on and it just burns. It burns and burns and burns.
有时候我觉得没啥效果，有时候直接就烂脸，烂脸烂脸烂脸。
I did try this vitamin C suspension, like, the 23%. And it was gritty, and it made me skin burn.
我试了23%维他命C悬液那款，有点儿砂，结果我的脸就受伤了。
We'll probably always be fixated on how we present our faces to the world,
我们或许会一直关注如何将自己的脸呈现在世人面前，
but if we aren't careful with the products we use, we risk our choices coming back to burn us in the end.
但如果我们使用产品时不小心，就可能落得个烧伤自己的下场。
