评论
打印
(And here is a brief from China)Coffee gains ground in China's tea-growing heartland
（下面是一则来自中国的简报）咖啡在中国茶乡发展壮大
A DOZEN INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPERTS shuffle around a long wooden table, pausing at each steaming cup, heads dipping and sniffing deeply.
十几位国际咖啡专家围坐在一张长长的木桌旁，在每一杯热气腾腾的咖啡前停下脚步，探出头来大口闻着。
Then the raucous slurping begins.
接着传来了嘶嘶的吸水声。
In the wings, coffee farmer Yang Fan watches intently as the judges circle, awaiting a verdict on her latest crop of beans.
在侧厅里，种植咖啡的杨帆（音译）专注地看着围成一圈的评委们，等着他们给她最新种植的咖啡豆做出最后的评判。
China may be the spiritual home of tea, but it is fast developing a reputation as a top coffee producer.
中国或许称得上是茶叶的精神故乡，但中国作为顶级咖啡产地的声誉也正在迅速蹿升。
This tasting was a side event to the first ever Pu'er International Specialty Coffee Expo in China's southwestern Yunnan province,
此次品鉴会是位于中国西南地区的云南省举办的首届普洱茶国际特产博览会的一项附带活动，
which ran this winter and drew more than a thousand attendees, including industry aicionados from across the globe.
今年冬季召开的这届博览会吸引了1000多名参会者，其中不乏来自世界各地的行业爱好者。
"Coffee has huge potential in China," says Liu Ying,
“咖啡在中国有着巨大的潜力，”刘莹（音译）说。
who swapped her life working in private-equity investment in Beijing to grow coffee in Pu'er five years ago.
五年前，她放弃了北京某私募股权投资公司的工作，在普洱市做起了咖啡种植生意。
"The younger generation prefer to drink cofee in their offices much more than tea."
“比起喝茶，年轻一代还是更喜欢在他们的办公室喝咖啡。”
Still, Pu'er remains synonymous with tea.
不过，即便如此，普洱市依然是茶叶的代名词。
This bustling town near the Laos border is surrounded by undulating green hills scored with tea plantations;
老挝边境附近的这座繁华小镇四周环抱着连绵起伏，种满了茶园的青山；
it produces an eponymous variety of tea, considered one of China's most refined.
这里产一种和该市同名并且被认为是中国最精华的茶叶之一的普洱茶。
But the region's temperate climate is also perfect for growing arabica coffee.
不过，该地区温和的气候也非常适合种植阿拉比卡咖啡。
And as China's fast-living millennials move away from traditional tea in favor of the invigorating jolt of coffee,
随着中国快速成长的千禧一代的喜好从传统的饮茶转向提神的咖啡，
Pu'er's farmers are catering to the demand.
普洱市的农民也开始迎合大家的这种需求。
Yunnan accounts for 98% of China's coffee harvest,
中国采收的咖啡云南就占了总量的98%，
with half coming from the mist-shrouded landscape around Pu'er.
其中又有一半都产自普洱地区。
Today, China is the 13th biggest coffee producer in the world—rising from zero output three decades ago to 136,000 tons annually today.
今天，中国已经成长为世界上的第13大咖啡生产国——年产量从30年前的零吨一跃为今天的13.6万吨。
In April, Seattle's annual Specialty Coffee Expo decided to showcase China as its portrait country of origin.
今年4月，西雅图一年一度的咖啡博览会决定将中国作为本届博览会的展览发源地。
It follows on the heels of Starbucks' launching its first single-origin Yunnan cofee last year after eight years of partnership with Yunnan farmers.
在此之前，在与云南农民合作了8年后，星巴克于去年推出了首个单一产地的云南咖啡。
With global coffee prices at record lows,
在全球咖啡价格处于创纪录低位的情况下，
Yunnan farmers are processing beans in bespoke ways to create distinct flavors and aromas—
云南的农民正在以独特的方式加工咖啡豆，以创造独特的口感和香味——
allowing them to enter the market of specialty coffee.
籍此进入特产咖啡市场。
"At current coffee prices, I can't even feed my family," says the farmer Yang.
农民杨说：“以目前的咖啡价格，我连养家糊口都成问题。”
"My only way out is to produce specialty cofee, to make the best cofee beans."
“我唯一的出路就是种植特产咖啡，做出最好的咖啡豆。”
That means letting beans dry in their cherries, thus imparting a wild, fruity flavor via environmental fermentation.
这意味着让豆子在樱桃中风干，从而通过环境发酵产生一种野生的果香。
Or allowing them to "honey" in their sugary inner mucilage layer, which adds a subtle sweetness.
或者让它们在含糖的内部黏液层中“浸泡在甜言蜜语之中”，增加微妙的甜味。
Back in the tasting room, Yang awaits the experts' verdict on whether all that extra effort was worthwhile.
回到品鉴室，杨正在等待专家们对这些额外努力是否值得做出评判。
"If I told you this was Colombian or Panama cofee, nobody would argue with me," says Samuel Gurel, CEO of Pu'er's Torch Cofee Roasters, as Yang breaks into a huge grin.
“如果我告诉你这是哥伦比亚或巴拿马的咖啡，也不会有人有异议，”普洱火炬咖啡烘焙CEO塞缪尔·古雷尔说，杨不禁喜笑颜开。
"It's a great example of how Chinese coffee is evolving."
“这就是一个说明中国咖啡在不断发展的好例子。”
译文由可可原创，仅供学习交流使用，未经许可请勿转载。
