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超加工食品如何堆满你的购物车?(9)

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Hall’s study provided evidence that an ultra-processed diet – with its soft textures and strong flavours – really does cause over-eating and weight gain, regardless of the sugar content.

霍尔的研究提供了证据,证明不管含糖量如何,口感柔软、味道浓烈的超加工饮食都会导致饮食过量和体重增加。

Over just two weeks, the subjects gained an average of 1kg.

在短短两周内,受试者平均增重1公斤。

This is a far more dramatic result than you would expect to see over such a short space of time (especially since the volunteers rated both types of food as equally pleasant).

在这么短的时间内,这个结果比你想象的要夸张得多(尤其是志愿者们对两种食物的评价都一样好)。

After Hall’s study was published in July 2019, it was impossible to dismiss Monteiro’s proposition that the rise of UPFs increases the risk of obesity.

霍尔的研究于2019年7月发表,之后,要反驳蒙泰罗的观点,即超加工食品的增加导致了肥胖风险的增加,成为了不可能。

Monteiro told me that as a result of Hall’s study, he and his colleagues in Brazil found they were suddenly being taken seriously.

蒙泰罗告诉我,由于霍尔的研究,他和巴西的同事发现他们突然受到了重视。

Now that we have evidence of a link between diets high in UPFs and obesity, it seems clear that a healthy diet should be based on fresh, home-cooked food.

既然我们有证据表明高超加工食品饮食与肥胖之间存在联系,那么,很明显,健康的饮食应该以新鲜的家常食物为基础。

To help champion home cooking among Brazilians, Monteiro recruited the cookery writer Rita Lobo, whose website Panelinha (“network”) is the most popular food site in Brazil, with 3m hits a month.

为了在巴西人中倡导家庭烹饪,蒙泰罗聘请了烹饪作家丽塔·洛博,她所在的网站Panelinha(网络)是巴西最受欢迎的美食网站,每月的点击量为300万次。

Lobo said that when she tells people about UPFs, the first reaction is panic and anger.

洛博说,当她告诉人们超加工食品的危害时,第一反应是恐慌与愤怒。

“They say: ‘Oh my God! I’m not going to be able to eat my yoghurt or my cereal bar! What am I going to eat?’”

“他们说: ‘哦,我的上帝! 我再也不能吃酸奶和谷物棒了! 我要吃什么呢?’”

After a while, however, she says that the concept of ultra-processed foods is “almost a relief” to people, because it liberates them from the polarities and restriction created by fad diets or “clean eating’”.

过了一段时间,她说,超加工食品的概念对人们来说“几乎是一种解脱”,因为它将人们从流行饮食或“干净饮食”所带来的对立和限制中解放出来。

People are thrilled, Lobo says, when they realise they can have desserts again, as long as they are freshly made.

洛博说,当人们意识到他们又可以吃甜点了,只要它们是现做的,他们都很兴奋。

But modern patterns of work do not make it easy to find the time to cook every day.

但现代的工作模式使得每天都有时间做饭并不容易。

For households who have learned to rely on ultra-processed convenience foods, returning to home cooking can seem daunting – and expensive.

对于那些已经学会依赖超加工方便食品的家庭来说,回归家常菜似乎令人生畏,而且成本高昂。

Hall’s researchers in Maryland spent 40% more money purchasing the food for the unprocessed diet.

霍尔在马里兰州的研究人员在购买未经加工的食物中多花了40%的资金。

(However, I noticed that the menu included large prime cuts of meat or fish every day; it would be interesting to see how the cost would have compared with a larger number of vegetarian meals or cheaper cuts of meat.)

(不过,我注意到菜单上每天都有精选部位的肉或鱼; 与大量的素食餐或便宜的肉类相比,看看成本会有多少变化很有趣。)

In Brazil, cooking from scratch still tends to be cheaper than eating ultra-processed food, Lobo says.

洛博说,在巴西,使用原材料进行烹饪仍比吃超加工食品便宜。

UPFs are a relative novelty in Brazil and memories of a firm tradition of home cooking have not died yet here.

超加工食品在巴西是一种相对新鲜的事物,巴西人对家常菜的坚定传统的记忆还没有消失。

“In Brazil, it doesn’t matter if you are rich or poor, you grew up eating rice and beans. The problem for you [in the UK],” Lobo remarks, “is that you don’t know what your ‘rice and beans’ is.”

“在巴西,贫穷或富有都不重要,因为你都是吃着米饭和豆子长大的。“(在英国),你的问题是,”洛博说,“你不知道你的‘米饭和豆子’是什么。”

重点单词   查看全部解释    
restriction [ri'strikʃən]

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n. 限制,约束

 
obesity [əu'bi:siti]

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n. 肥胖,肥大

 
cereal ['siəriəl]

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n. 谷类食物,麦片
adj. 谷类的,谷物的

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panic ['pænik]

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n. 恐慌
adj. 惊慌的
vt.

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impossible [im'pɔsəbl]

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adj. 不可能的,做不到的
adj.

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concept ['kɔnsept]

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n. 概念,观念

 
prime [praim]

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adj. 最初的,首要的,最好的,典型的
n.

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dismiss [dis'mis]

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vt. 解散,开除,逃避,(法律)驳回

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proposition [.prɔpə'ziʃən]

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n. 建议,命题,主张
vt. 向 ... 提

 
reaction [ri'ækʃən]

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n. 反应,反作用力,化学反应

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