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00:00.00]Alexsandrah is a fashion model in London.
亚历克桑德拉是伦敦的一名时装模特。
[00:03.27]She has a twin.
她有一个双胞胎姐妹。
[00:04.95]But her twin is not her sister.
但不是她的真姐妹。
[00:07.57]The twin is a product of Artificial Intelligence, or AI.
这个双胞胎姐妹是人工智能(AI)的产物。
[00:13.32]Whenever Alexsandrah is not available to work with a photographer, the virtual twin takes her place.
每当亚历克桑德拉没空与摄影师合作时，虚拟双胞胎就会代替她。
[00:21.57]When a company chooses to use the AI Alexsandrah, the real-life version gets paid.
当一家公司选择使用 AI 亚历克桑德拉时，现实生活中亚历克桑德拉的就会获得报酬。
[00:29.72]Alexsandrah said her AI twin is exactly like her.
亚历克桑德拉说，她的人工智能双胞胎和她一模一样。
[00:34.72]Alexandrah's twin is an example of how computer images are influencing creative industries.
亚历山德拉的双胞胎是电脑图像如何影响创意产业的一个例子。
[00:42.92]Those in favor of using AI in fashion say the virtual models permit companies to show possible buyers how their clothing looks on people of all shapes and sizes.
那些支持在时尚界使用AI的人表示，虚拟模特允许公司向潜在买家展示他们的服装在各种身材和体型的人身上是什么样子。
[00:58.97]In the real world, it would be difficult and costly to find a model for every skin color and body shape.
在现实世界中，要为每一种肤色和体形找到一个模特是很困难的，而且成本很高。
[01:09.75]The companies that make clothing say using AI prevents people from buying their products, trying them on at home, and then sending them back if they dislike them.
制造服装的公司表示，使用人工智能可以预防人们购买他们的产品，在家里试穿，如果不喜欢就退货的事件。
[01:24.25]The problem is that AI models can take work away from human models, makeup artists and photographers.
问题是，AI模特可能会抢走人类模特、化妆师和摄影师的工作。
[01:35.07]The fashion industry has often been criticized for using models who are only white or tall or who fit one idea of beauty.
时尚业经常被批评使用只有白人或高个子的模特，或者只符合一种美感的模特。
[01:47.75]Activists for including many groups in fashion say some companies could seem like they are employing minorities when they are just using AI models.
将许多群体纳入时尚界的活动人士表示，一些公司可能看起来像是在雇佣少数族裔，而他们只是在使用AI模特。
[02:01.55]Sara Ziff is a former fashion model who started Model Alliance, a nonprofit group for workers' rights in the fashion industry.
萨拉·齐夫是一名前时装模特，她创办了模特联盟，这是一个为时尚工作者权利服务的非营利性组织。
[02:13.60]Ziff said the use of AI shows there is a difference between the industry's words and its actions.
齐夫说，AI的使用表明，该行业的言行之间存在差异。
[02:23.90]Levi Strauss is an American clothing company known for its blue jeans.
利维·施特劳斯是一家以蓝色牛仔裤闻名的美国服装公司。
[02:30.65]In March 2023, the company said it would be testing AI-generated models from a company in Amsterdam.
2023年3月，该公司表示将测试来自阿姆斯特丹一家公司的人工智能生成的模型。
[02:41.42]The aim was to show how its clothing fit people of all sizes.
其目的是展示它的服装是如何适合各种体型的人。
[02:47.57]But after criticism, the company said it would not reduce its use of human models.
但在受到批评后，该公司表示不会减少对真人模型的使用。
[02:55.32]Levi Strauss said it would not "substitute" AI for action toward its "diversity, equity and inclusion goals."
利瓦伊·施特劳斯表示，它不会用AI来取代实现其“多样性、公平性和包容性”目标的行动。
[03:07.12]The Associated Press (AP) recently asked some clothing businesses to state their position on the use of AI models.
美联社(AP)最近要求一些服装企业表明他们对使用AI模型的立场。
[03:18.10]AP asked Target, Kohls, Nieman Marcus, Walmart and Macys.
美联社询问了塔吉特、科尔斯、尼曼·马库斯、沃尔玛和麦赛斯。
[03:26.07]It also asked international companies Temu, Shein and H&M.
还询问了国际公司Temu、Shein和H&M。
[03:33.42]Some chose not to answer.
一些人选择拒绝回应。
[03:37.95]Others said they do not use AI models.
其他人表示，他们不会使用AI模特。
[03:42.90]Walmart said it does not use AI models but "suppliers may have a different approach to photography."
沃尔玛表示，它不使用人工智能模型，但“供应商可能有不同的摄影方法。”
[03:51.12]Lalaland.Ai creates AI models.
Lalaland.Ai 公司创建AI模特。
[03:55.97]Michael Musandu started the company.
这家公司是由迈克尔·穆桑杜创办的。
[03:59.60]Musandu grew up in Africa and studied in the Netherlands.
穆桑杜在非洲长大，在荷兰留学。
[04:03.85]He started the company when he saw that not many models looked like him – Black and African.
当他发现没有多少像他这样的黑人和非洲人模特时，他创办了这家公司。
[04:11.57]"One model does not represent everyone that's actually shopping and buying a product," he said.
“一个模特并不能代表所有真正购买的消费者，”他说。
[04:17.82]"As a person of color, I felt this painfully myself."
“作为一个有色人种，我自己也感受到了这一点。”
[04:23.32]Musandu said he is seeing a demand for his services, but his product is designed to supplement traditional photography not replace it.
穆桑杜说，他看到了人们对他的服务的需求，但他的产品是为了补充传统摄影而不是取代它。
[04:35.70]The goal is to help a buyer make better decisions and reduce product returns and waste.
其目标是帮助买家做出更好的决定，减少产品退货和浪费。
[04:43.60]In addition, he said, the company creates new jobs for computer programmers, who train the systems that create the models.
他说道，此外，公司还为计算机程序员创造了新的工作岗位，他们负责培训创建模型的系统。
[04:54.35]"If brands are serious about inclusion efforts, they will continue to hire these models of color," Musandu said.
穆桑杜说：“如果品牌认真对待包容性工作，他们就会继续聘用这些有色人种模特。”
[05:03.60]Others in the fashion industry are fully using AI.
时尚界的其他行业先驱正在充分使用AI。
[05:09.07]Cameron Wilson is a former fashion photographer who started a company in Britain called The Diigitals.
卡梅隆·威尔逊曾是一名时尚摄影师，他在英国创办了一家名为The Diigitals的公司。
[05:17.40]Wilson, who is white, designed a Black, female model named Shudu in 2017.
作为一个白人，他在2017年设计了一个黑人女性模特，取名为舒杜。
[05:26.47]Wilson was criticized for creating a Black model.
他因创造了一个黑人模型而受到批评。
[05:30.95]But Shudu was used in jobs for companies like Louis Vuitton and BMW.
但舒度曾被用于路易威登和宝马等公司。
[05:36.95]It also helped the human model Alexsandrah.
这也帮助了真人模特亚历克桑德拉。
[05:41.20]She has worked in fashion shows as a real-life version of the AI model.
她曾作为现实版的AI模特参加时装秀。
[05:48.30]Alexsandrah said she is proud of her work that has come from The Diigitals.
亚历克桑德拉说，她为自己Diigitals的作品感到自豪。
[05:54.52]"The future generations can look back at and be like, ‘These are the pioneers,'" she said.
她说：“未来的几代人可以回顾历史，然后说，‘这些人是先驱。”
[06:02.15]Other models are not feeling so good about AI.
其他模特对AI模特的感觉并不是很好。
[06:07.15]Yve Edmond works as a "fit model."
伊夫·埃德蒙是一名“健康模特”。
[06:11.70]She tries on clothes for companies who want to see how their designs fit a real person.
她为那些想看看自己的设计是否适合真人的公司试穿衣服。
[06:19.27]She worries that the AI modeling companies are using images and videos of real people to train their systems.
她担心AI模特公司正在使用真人的图像和视频来训练他们的系统。
[06:29.32]She calls that a violation because humans are not being paid for their part in the technology.
她称这是一种侵犯，因为人类在这项技术中没有拿到报酬。
[06:38.10]Edmond said she was called for a photo session, but there were no new clothes.
埃德蒙说，她被叫来拍照，但没有提供新衣服。
[06:44.70]She was asked to move her body in certain ways and walk for a recording.
她被要求以特定的方式移动身体，并步行进行录音。
[06:51.50]The client said it was "research."
这位客户说这是“研究”。
[06:54.77]Edmond said she felt "swindled."
爱德蒙说她觉得自己“被骗了”。
[06:58.60]Unlike film actors and writers, who went on strike to protest the use of AI without a legal agreement, there are no similar labor groups for models.
与电影演员和编剧不同，模特没有类似的劳工组织，无法在没有法律协议的情况下罢工抗议AI。
[07:12.35]Ziff, of Model Alliance, is pushing for labor laws for fashion workers.
模特联盟的齐夫正在推动为时尚工作者制定劳动法。
[07:19.15]The state of New York is working on the Fashion Workers Act.
纽约州正在制定《时尚工作者法案》。
[07:25.42]The law would include laws related to models who are used in AI.
这项法律将涉及被用于AI测试中的模特。
[07:33.05]A model would need to give written permission to a company that planned to use AI to create a computer image of the model.
模特需要向计划使用AI建模的计算机图像的公司提供书面许可。
[07:44.75]The contract would show the pay rate and the length of time that the replica could be used.
合同中将列明薪酬标准和可使用该复制品的时间长度。
[07:53.35]For AI and the fashion business, it is still early.
对于AI和时尚业来说，现在还为时过早。
[07:59.05]Ziff compared it to a time of lawlessness in the early American West.
齐夫将其比作美国西部早期的无政府的时代。
[08:05.60]Alexsandrah said she believes AI is helping her career—with the right rules.
亚历克桑德拉说，她相信人工智能正在使用正确的规则帮助她的职业生涯。
[08:13.20]But Edmond is not so sure about AI.
但埃德蒙对AI并不是那么有把握。
[08:16.17]She said Earth has "a person of every shade, every height, every size.
她说,地球上有“各种身材、各种身高、各种体型的人。
[08:22.57]Why not find that person and compensate that person?"
为什么不找到那个人并给那个人报酬呢？”
[08:27.95] I'm Dan Friedell.
我是丹·弗里德尔。
[08:29.87]And I'm Gena Bennett.
我是吉娜 · 贝内特。
