Clothes Retailing: The Forgotten Majority
The fashion industry blatently pays attention to plus-size women.
A good fit is everything, stylists often counsel, but in assessing its market America's fashion business appears to have mislaid the measuring tape.
A frequently-cited study done a few years ago by Plunkett Research, a market-research firm, found that 67% of American women were “plus-size”, meaning size 14 or larger.
That figure will not have changed much, but in 2016, only 18% of clothing sold was plus-size, according to NPD Group, another research firm.
Designers and retailers have long thought of the plus-size segment as high-risk.
Predicting what these customers will buy can be difficult, as they tend to be more cautious about styles.
Making larger clothes is more expensive; higher costs for fabric cannot always be passed on to consumers.
In turn, plus-size women shopped less because the industry was not serving them well.
“We have money but nowhere to spend it,” says Kristine Thompson, who runs a blog called Trendy Curvy and has nearly 150,000 followers on Instagram, a social-media site.
克里斯丁·汤姆森经营着一个名为“ 时尚曲线 ” 的博客，在社交网站Instagram 上有15万粉丝，她说道，“我们有钱，却无处可花”。
At last, that is changing.
Fast-fashion brands, including Forever 21 and a fashion line sold in partnership with Target, a giant retailer, have expanded their plus-size collections.
Forever 21和与零售巨头Target 合作的时尚线上销售等快时尚品牌，扩展了其系列大码女装业务。
Lane Bryant, a plus-size retailer, and Prabal Garung, a designer, have done the same.
In March Nike extended its “X-sized” sportswear range.
Revenue in the plus-size category increased by 14% between 2013 and 2016, compared with growth of 7% for all apparel.