The seaside promenade in Douglas, on the Isle of Man, a self-governing British Crown dependency, boasts grand Victorian buildings and a horse-drawn tram.
Once they helped it to compete with the likes of Llandudno and Blackpool for the tourist masses of England's north-west.
When cheap air travel meant these holiday towns were abandoned, most fell into disrepair. But Douglas reinvented itself as an off-shore financial centre.
Today finance provides over a third of the island's GDP, of which around half is from insurance. Now new transparency rules put that at risk.
From January 1st the island's insurers will have to be more open with clients, in particular on the subject of brokers' commissions.
Britain has had similar rules since 2013. International organisations such as the OECD, a club of rich countries,
and the Financial Action Task Force, an intergovernmental anti-money-laundering organisation, increasingly require such standards for their seal of approval.
The island's main insurance business is not at risk. The "offshore bonds" it started offering in the 1970s allow British residents to pay a lump sum,
usually at least 50,000 pounds ($63,000), to be returned on an agreed date.
These count as life insurance, though the insurance payout is typically just 1-5% of the lump sum, and can be as little as 1 pound.
The appeal is tax-efficiency: deferring incometax liabilities or avoiding inheritance tax.
Britain's tax authority could kill these off, but it has tolerated them for decades and shows no sign of a change of heart.
Rather, it is the island's growing business of life insurance for expatriates and the global rich that is under threat.
The other big offshore insurance centre, Bermuda, specialises in property-and-casualty insurance and reinsurance, mainly for hurricane risk in America.
For the Isle of Man, by contrast, life insurance accounts for over 90% of its insurers' assets under management: 69bn pounds out of 75bn pounds.
And within life insurance, it specialises in asset protection and asset management rather than death benefits or annuities.