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Australia's only island state is often overlooked in favor of splashy sights like Sydney or the outback. Tasmania is countrified and slow-paced; accepted wisdom likens it to Britain in the 1950s. Certainly, it has a throwbackish charm, with low buildings and wide-open spaces. One facet of life here, though, is a distinct departure from ration-strapped postwar England: the food. Imagine slabs of perfectly marbled steak from traditional cattle breeds, stone fruits picked from local orchards, sweet wild scallops plucked out of clean, ice-cold waters.
在澳大利亚，悉尼等内陆地区的曼妙景致常常让人忘却了那里还有塔斯马尼亚这个地方。塔斯马尼亚是澳大利亚唯一的岛屿州，淳朴的乡村气息和悠闲慵懒的慢节奏生活常常让人不禁联想起20世纪50年代的英国。当然，低矮的建筑物、开阔的视野也增添了它的复古韵味。不过，这里还有另一面的生活完全不同于战后缺衣少粮的英格兰：那就是美食。传统养殖带来的完美雪花牛排，采自当地果园的核果，清澈冰冷的水底捞出的甘甜野生扇贝，想想就让人垂涎。
Tony Scherer, who raises heirloom vegetables in Tasmania, sees stronger parallels between the island today and California in the 1970s. He worked on the West Coast when Alice Waters was building the farm-to-table movement. 'I feel that same energy here that was about back then,' he explained. 'It's not a big corporate culture, mainly a cottage industry.'
在塔斯马尼亚打理家传蔬菜园的托尼·谢勒(Tony Scherer)认为今天的塔斯马尼亚更像是20世纪70年代的美国加州。当艾丽丝·沃特斯(Alice Waters)发起“从农场到餐桌”运动时，谢勒正好在美国西海岸工作。“如今在这里我感觉到和当年一样的活力，”他解释道，“这并不是一种大企业文化，它关乎的是小企业小作坊。”
The focus is generally on quality rather than quantity. For instance, the island's 200 vineyards produced less than 1% of Australia's total wine output by volume in 2013; Tasmanian vintages, however, comprised at least a quarter of the country's 'A' grade wines, according to the trade group Wine Tasmania. In the seafood industry, you have people like Mark Eather, a Hobart-based fisherman who adheres to the Japanese practice of ike jime. The point is to catch and kill fish as quickly and painlessly as possible, thereby preventing stress hormones from tainting the flesh.
在塔斯马尼亚，人们关注的焦点通常是质量而非数量。举例而言，虽然2013年全岛200个葡萄园的葡萄酒产量不到澳大利亚总产量的1%，但是据行业组织Wine Tasmania的数据，这里“A级”葡萄酒的数量占到了澳洲总数的至少四分之一。在海鲜行业，有像马克·伊瑟(Mark Eather)这样的渔夫，来自霍巴特市的伊瑟严格遵守一种名为“ikejime”的日本捕鱼方式，力求捕鱼和杀鱼的过程越快越好、鱼受的痛苦越少越好，以减少鱼在此过程中分泌的应激激素污染鱼肉。“我有强迫症，” 伊瑟说，“我不想给买家有缺陷的鱼。”
But, until the last several years, it was challenging to lure even the most die-hard foodies to this garden of eating -- for good reason. 'Tasmania was widely known for having the best produce in the nation, but the worst chefs,' explained local food writer Matthew Evans. That changed with the establishment of new farm-to-table restaurants and cooking schools around the state.
不过，直到几年前，这个美食天堂却连最痴迷于吃的美食家也吸引不来。理由倒也很充分。“大家都知道塔斯马尼亚的食材是全澳最好的，但厨师却是最差的，”当地美食作家马修·伊万斯(Matthew Evans)解释说。随着新型农场直送餐厅和烹饪学校的涌现，情况发生了改变。
'Tasmania may seem like a paradise now, but it has huge potential to be even more than it is today,' said former Sydney resident Rodney Dunn, who moved to the island five years ago to start the Agrarian Kitchen, a cooking school situated on a 5-acre farm.
“塔斯马尼亚现在可能真的像个天堂了，不过它仍有巨大的潜力可以挖掘，”罗德尼·邓恩(Rodney Dunn)说，他之前住在悉尼，五年前搬到岛上，在一个面积五英亩的农场里开了所名为Agrarian Kitchen的烹饪学校。
The culinary destinations highlighted here are well worth a pilgrimage from the mainland. They're scattered around Tasmania, from Hobart, the capital city on the southern tip, to Launceston in the north. It's easy to rent a car, and the drives through rolling, craggy countryside are so scenic you might not want them to end -- until you get hungry.
Andrew McIntosh/Tourism Tasmania农场同时也是烹饪学校Agrarian Kitchen下面介绍的精彩美食目的地非常值得你从澳洲大陆来岛一游。它们分布在从岛南端的首府霍巴特到北边的朗塞斯顿的各个地方。在岛上租车非常方便，你可以驾车穿过绵延起伏而崎岖的乡村，路边的景色美得让你不愿停下，直到你的肚子咕咕作响。
An Edible Education
美食课堂
Unassuming and bespectacled, Mr. Dunn was a magazine editor before he and his wife, Severine, decamped to Tasmania and set up Agrarian Kitchen in a former schoolhouse an hour's drive from Hobart. Their primary offering is a daylong class that starts with foraging and picking produce -- there are peach, apple and pear trees on the property, as well as pens for chickens and pigs. The afternoon is spent cooking modern Australian food in the professional-grade kitchen. The syllabus might include working with freshly foraged truffles, skimming cream from the milk of a cow that lives nearby or learning the nuances of the on-site wood-burning oven. About $360 a person for a one-day course, 650 Lachlan Rd., Lachlan, theagrariankitchen.com
谦逊有礼的邓恩戴着副眼镜，来这里之前是一名杂志编辑。他和妻子塞芙琳(Severine)在离霍巴特一个小时车程的一处旧校舍里创立了Agrarian Kitchen烹饪学校。他们开设的主要是一个一日课程：早上从寻找、挑选农产品开始，这里有桃树、苹果树和梨树，还养了鸡和猪；下午在一个专业级厨房里学习现代澳洲菜肴的烹制。课程可能还包括加工新采的松露，从附近奶牛挤出的奶中撇掉奶皮，学习现场燃木炉子的细微差别。一日课程每人学费约360美元；地址：650 Lachlan Rd., Lachlan；网址：theagrariankitchen.com。
Carnivore's Delights
食肉者们的大爱
'We have the most natural produce in the country,' said Canadian expat and restaurateur Kim Seagram. 'That's the nice thing about Tasmania being 15 years behind the rest of the world.'
“我们有全澳最天然的农产品，”从加拿大移居而来的餐馆老板金姆·西格莱姆(Kim Seagram)说，“塔斯马尼亚比世界其他地方落后15年真是件好事。”
Her two restaurants are showcases for local ingredients. Stillwater, which she set up after falling in love with Tasmania on a brief vacation, is housed in a 1830s mill in the historic town of Launceston. Rough-hewed wooden beams decorate the dining room's walls and ceilings; the eatery has a terrace overlooking the river and a casual wine bar where guests can sample Tasmanian vintages. The menu evolves with the seasons and might feature seared scallops or slow-roasted salt-grass lamb from Flinders Island, off Tasmania's northern coast, where blustery weather deposits salt on pastures.
Chris CrerarStillwater餐厅的一道扇贝菜肴她的两家餐馆正是当地食材的展示窗口。她在塔斯马尼亚的一次短暂度假旅行后爱上了这里，然后在历史名城朗塞斯顿市一处19世纪30年代的磨坊里开了一家名为Stillwater的餐馆。餐厅 壁和天花板用粗犷的木梁装饰，餐厅露台可以俯瞰河流，在休闲葡萄酒吧里客人们还能品尝塔斯马尼亚葡萄酒。餐厅菜单会根据季节进行调整，客人们有机会品尝到烤扇贝、来自北岸边上弗林德斯岛(Flinders Island)的 烤盐草羔羊肉，那里的大风天气使盐沉积到了草地上。
Black Cow Bistro focuses on exceptional meat from the region -- the island's damp climate is well-suited to raising traditional, flavorful breeds of cattle such as Angus and Hereford, and no growth promotants can be used in Tasmania. Sample dry-aged, grass-fed steaks in its casual, Art Deco-era setting. Stillwater: 2 Bridge Rd., Launceston, stillwater.net.au; Black Cow Bistro: 70 George St., Launceston, blackcowbistro.com.au
Black Cow Bistro餐厅专注于该地区非同凡响的肉品。岛上潮湿的天气很适合饲养传统的、肉质鲜美的牲畜，像安格斯(Angus)牛和赫里福德(Hereford)牛，而且在塔斯马尼亚不允许使用促生长剂。你可以在它装饰艺术气息浓郁的休闲餐厅品尝到取自草料饲养牛的干式熟成牛排。Stillwater地址：2 Bridge Rd., Launceston、网址：stillwater.net.au；Black Cow Bistro地址：70 George St., Launceston、网址：blackcowbistro.com.au。
Wee Winery
Sylvain MarchandD'Meure葡萄园小小酿酒坊
D'Meure vineyard, just over 20 miles south of Hobart, is typical of the tiny, hands-on operations that characterize Tasmania's winemaking scene. Former lawyer Dirk Meure packs 8,000 vines into his tiny, single-hectare plot -- double the typical planting density in Burgundy, France. 'The vines have to struggle to survive,' he explained. 'But we don't have to irrigate and upset the natural balance.' A warm climate elsewhere in Australia, he claimed, rushes ripening, and acid is often added to wine to balance the sweetness, but that's not the case here. Mr. Meure produces just 300 cases each year of high-quality Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Contact the owner through the vineyard's website to book a private tasting. 16 Fleurtys Lane, Birchs Bay, dmeure.com.au
D'Meure葡萄园位于霍巴特以南20英里开外的地方，具有典型的塔斯马尼亚风格：规模非常小，手工操作。曾经是律师的德克·缪尔(Dirk Meure)把8,000株葡萄树塞进了他只有一公顷大的小小园子里，这个密度是法国勃艮第典型种植密度的两倍。“葡萄树不得不想办法努力生存，”他解释说，“不过我们也不必灌溉，去破坏自然的平衡。”他说，澳大利亚其他地方温热的天气会催熟果实，所以需要在葡萄酒中加入酸来平衡甜味，不过在塔斯马尼亚就不用。缪尔每年只出品300箱高品质的灰比诺(Pinot Gris)和黑比诺(Pinot Gris)。有兴趣的读者可以通过葡萄园网站联系园主预约品尝。地址：16 Fleurtys Lane, Birchs Bay；网址：dmeure.com.au。
Bubble Rep
起泡酒的代表
Widely acknowledged among the wine industry as Tasmania's premier sparkling wine, Jansz is one of the few marques imported to the U.S. from the swath of vineyards in the Tamar Valley, close to Launceston. Co-founded in the 1980s by the Louis Roederer Champagne house, Jansz pioneered a Champagne-like process wryly known as Methode Tasmanoise. Today, winemaker Natalie Fryer masterminds a full program, including a commercial rose and Brut plus small-batch single vintages. Taste a clutch of her creations in the wine room (and pause to look at the cellar door made from old Tasmanian celery-top pine, a wood now so scarce it can't be legally harvested). 12168 Pipers Brook Rd., Pipers Brook, jansz.com.au
简茨(Jansz)在葡萄酒行业被公认是塔斯马尼亚最好的起泡葡萄酒，它也是少数几个从朗塞斯顿附近的塔马谷(Tamar Valley)葡萄园区出口到美国的品牌之一。简茨在20世纪80年代由Louis Roederer Champagne香槟酒厂联合开发，它开辟了一种被戏称为“Methode Tasmanoise”（塔斯马尼亚法）工艺的香槟酒式酿造方法。如今，酿酒师娜塔莉·弗莱尔(Natalie Fryer)制定了一整套的酿造方案，包括商业化的玫瑰口味简茨、香槟酒、还有少量单一年份酒。在葡萄酒屋可以品尝她的一系列创造，（还可以参观一下用老塔斯马尼亚芹叶松制作的酒窖大门，这种木头非常的稀少，合法地采伐也不可以。）地址：12168 Pipers Brook Rd., Pipers Brook；网址：jansz.com.au。
Sushi Deluxe
寿司也奢华
Born and brought up in Japan, where he studied sushi-making, Masaaki Koyama moved to Tasmania's Huon Valley, southwest of Hobart, after marrying a local. He brought along his expertise in high-end hand rolls. Mr. Koyama uses local fish and locally grown wasabi in his sushi and sashimi. His closet-sized cafe, Masaaki's Sushi, in the village of Geeveston, is only open on Friday and Saturday. If you can't sample his creations then, pick up the same treats at the chef's stall in Farm Gate Market on Sunday morning. 20b Church St., Geeveston, 61-408-712-340
Masaaki Koyama生在日本长在日本，并在那里学习了寿司制作技艺。他和霍巴特西南部休恩峡谷(Huon Valley)的一名女子结婚后就移居到了这里，并把做高端寿司的手艺也带了过来。Koyama用当地的鱼和芥末酱来做寿司和生鱼片。他的寿司店Masaaki's Sushi面积很小，位于吉夫斯顿村(Geeveston)，只在周五和周六营业。如果你这两个时间都没法去他的店里，也可以周日上午来Farm Gate Market市场他的摊位前，也能品尝到他的手艺。地址：20b Church St., Geeveston；电话：61-408-712-340。
The Chef's Table
大厨的餐桌
Melbourne veteran Steve Cumper arrived in the hamlet of Cygnet six years ago and snapped up a shabby cafe in a historic 1912 building. He transformed it into the Red Velvet Lounge, a casual bistro with deep-red walls and rustic wooden tables. He's accumulated plaudits and awards (including Country Style magazine's Australian Country Chef of the Year). It's well worth the hourlong drive from Hobart to experience his cooking for yourself -- Mr. Cumper is known for his sourdough breads and other homestyle baked goods, as well as relishes and jams, many of whose ingredients are sourced from nearby apple and cherry orchards. 24 Mary St., Cygnet, theredvelvetlounge.com.au
在墨尔本居住了多年的史蒂夫·昆佩尔(Steve Cumper)六年前来到小天鹅村(Cygnet)买下了一家简陋餐厅，这家餐厅开在一座建于1912年的老房子中。他把餐厅改造成了名为Red Velvet Lounge的休闲小酒馆。酒馆 面涂成深红色，里面放置着淳 的木桌。他的小酒馆已经为他赢得了不少赞誉和奖项（包括Country Style杂志颁发的“澳大利亚年度乡村主厨奖”(Australian Country Chef of the Year)）。它值得你驱车一个小时从霍巴特来到这里亲自品尝他的手艺，最出名的是他的酸酵母面包和其他家庭烘焙品，还有各种开胃小菜和果酱，其中许多原料均取自附近的苹果园和樱桃园。地址：24 Mary St., Cygnet；网址：theredvelvetlounge.com.au。
Sweet Treatment
甜蜜的款待
After apprenticing in London with star chef Angela Hartnett, Alistair Wise returned home to Tasmania and opened his own bakery. Sweet Envy lies on a quiet residential street in the suburb of North Hobart. With his shaven head and abundance of tattoos, Mr. Wise resembles an army reservist more than a chef -- until he starts chatting about food, specifically desserts. Fruit grown in Tasmania's cool climate is less sugary and has a rich mouthfeel, he explained, so it holds up beautifully in the ice creams, tarts, pies and cakes he sells in the minimalist, all-white space. On warm days, stop and sit on stools arranged in the alley next door to idle over a coffee and a cupcake. 341 Elizabeth St., North Hobart, sweetenvy.com
在伦敦做完明星主厨安吉拉·哈特尼特(Angela Hartnett)的学徒后，阿利斯泰·怀斯(Alistair Wise)回到塔斯马尼亚开了自己的烘焙坊。Sweet Envy坐落在北霍巴特郊区一处安静的住宅区街道上。怀斯剃个光头，身上到处是纹身，要不是开口谈美食、特别是甜品，他看上去更像一个陆军预备役军人而不是厨师。生长在塔斯马尼亚凉爽天气里的水果甜份较少，口感丰富，他解释说，所以很适合做他店里卖的冰激凌、果馅饼、派和蛋糕。他的店四白落地，透露出极简装饰风格。在暖和的天气里，不妨来到店中，在店旁小路上放置的凳子上坐坐，来杯咖啡和一个纸托蛋糕打发时光。地址：341 Elizabeth St., North Hobart；网址：sweetenvy.com。
