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Chinese tourists cross the world to seek out brands with a bit of historical pedigree, from Harrods to House of Fraser, the Scottish department store chain recently bought by a Chinese millionaire.
中国游客经常走出国门寻找带有一点历史底蕴的品牌，从哈罗兹(Harrods)到福莱莎百货(House of Fraser)，都能看到他们的身影。后者是苏格兰一家百货连锁公司，最近刚被中国的一位富翁所收购。
But the country also has a few long-standing brands of its own. Perhaps not surprisingly-it's rarely able to resist the urge to catalog things and stamp them with rubber stamps-China's government keeps them on a careful list, even sending inspection teams from the Ministry of Commerce to check out potential future candidates.
但中国自己也有一些历史悠久的品牌。中国政府列出了一份这些品牌的名单，甚至从商务部派出了调研组去确认那些未来可能入围的品牌。人们总是很难抵挡将这些事物分类并予以认证的诱惑，因此中国政府这么做也许不会让人感到吃惊。
According to the ministry's rules (in Chinese) contenders must have a pedigree that dates back to at least 1956, historical and cultural value, a good reputation and, of course, Chinese characteristics.
根据商务部的规定，这些品牌的历史必须至少可以追溯到1956年，具有历史和文化价值，有良好声誉，当然还要具有中国特色。
Those that make the grade are granted an official seal of approval on their status as Lao Zihao, or 'time-honored brands.' (Lao means old.) Local governments have their own parallel certification schemes.
那些达到标准的品牌将获得官方的“老字号”认证。地方政府也有自己的地方老字号认证计划。
There are upwards of 10,000 Lao Zihao nationally, with 700 recognized by the central government, said Zhou Huaishan, CEO of the China Time-Honored Brands Network, a website that attempts to track all such brands. It is hard to be certain which is the lao-est, but Mr. Zhou thinks Dongyangjiang Wine, a liquor company from Zhejiang province, could be a strong contender. The company has been manning the stills since the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279).
中华老字号网(China Time-Honored Brands Network)首席执行长周淮山称，中国全国共有超过10,000个老字号，其中700个老字号获得中央认证。中华老字号网试图收录所有老字号品牌。很难确定哪一个品牌最古老，但周淮山认为，来自浙江省的东阳江黄酒算是个强有力的竞争者。这种蒸馏酒的历史可以追溯到南宋时期（1127-1279年）。
After China's long civil war ended with a Communist victory in 1949, the state moved in to 'protect' (i.e. nationalize) these venerable brands, said Mr. Zhou, and most of them remain state-owned. There is no reason why they have to be, though.
周淮山称，1949年旷日持久的内战结束后，中国共产党取得了胜利，国家开始“保护”（即国有化）这些珍贵的品牌，现在它们中的多数仍属于国有。虽然将老字号国有化并没有什么必需的理由。
Even Chinese E-Commerce giant Alibaba Group Holding Ltd., now gearing up for a stock exchange listing in the U.S., could become a Lao Zihao one day, Mr. Zhou said - though it would presumably need an exemption from the rule that requires a pre-1956 pedigree.
周淮山说，甚至中国电商巨头阿里巴巴集团(Alibaba Group Holding Ltd.)有一天也可能会成为一个老字号，不过可以追溯到1956年以前这一条规定需要破个例。阿里巴巴目前正准备到美国上市。
'You can really look at the Lao Zihao as a symbol of China,' said Mr. Zhou. When high-ranking officials entertain foreign guests, they often choose Lao Zihao products as gifts, he said. That may explain why President Xi Jinping picked the otherwise undistinguished Qing-Feng Dumplings for a rare public appearance at the end of last year.
周淮山说，你的确可以把老字号看成是中国的一个象征。他说，高级官员款待外国客人时经常选择老字号产品作为礼物。这或许也可以解释为何国家主席习近平去年年底进行亲民秀时选择了不怎么起眼的庆丰包子铺。
But if you're just dipping your toes into the world of Lao Zihao first the time, where should you start? CRT takes readers on a tour of some Beijing favorites:
但如果你才第一次涉足“老字号”的世界，应当从哪里开始？“中国实时报”栏目将带读者们一览北京一些最受欢迎的老字号。
Bianyifang
便宜坊
CRT began its tour with dinner at this Peking duck restaurant, which opened its doors in 1416, when the Forbidden City was still under construction. Apart from such storied history, Bianyifang's selling point is that its duck is cooked in a closed oven and-unlike ordinary roast ducks-never touches a naked flame. This is supposedly cleaner, but it's a shame to miss out on that char-grilled edge that can make Peking duck such a treat.
“中国实时报”栏目此行从这家北京烤鸭店的大餐开始。这家餐厅1416年开业，当时紫禁城都还在建造中。除了如此深厚的历史渊源，便宜坊的卖点还在于其烤鸭是用焖炉烤制，不会接触明火（这与普通烤鸭不同）。据称这样更卫生，但错过让北京烤鸭如此美味的那层鸭皮确实令人遗憾。
On the positive side, diners at Bianyifang enjoy an exceptionally high pancake-to-duck ratio, so you'll never reach that maddening moment when you run out of wrapping. And the 198 yuan ($32) standard package, about right for two people, is a good deal compared with some of the other duck restaurants fleecing tourists in Beijing.
好的一面是，便宜坊的食客能够享受到份量充足的薄饼，永远不会出现没饼可卷这种令人抓狂的时刻。相比北京其他一些欺骗游客的烤鸭馆，人民币198元（合32美元）的标准套餐（大约适合两个人享用）还是很不错的。
Huguosi Snacks
护国寺小吃
For dessert, we checked into Huguosi, a bare-bones bakery and café that has branches throughout Beijing and is a favorite with the city's working masses. Lao Zihao run the gamut from some of Beijing's fanciest eateries to some of its most basic, and Huguosi is definitely at the latter end of the scale.
我们选择了护国寺作为吃点心的地方。护国寺相当于最简单的面包店加咖啡馆，其分店遍布北京，深受北京工薪阶层欢迎。“老字号”囊括的范围从北京一些最高档的餐厅到最基本的小馆子，而护国寺无疑属于后者。
At 3 yuan with free refills of sugar, Huguosi's babao zhou (sweet porridge with rice and beans) may provide more calories per yuan than any other dish on sale in the capital. For bigger spenders, there are, of course, other options on the menu, including noodles, dumplings and a selection of pastries.
护国寺的八宝粥价格仅为人民币3元，还可以免费加糖。以单位价格所能提供的热量计算，这道小吃的性价比可能高过北京的任何其他餐点。当然，花钱更豪爽的人也有其他选择，包括面条、饺子和多种点心。
It's hard to quibble with a place like this. Simple, authentic and very, very cheap, what you see at Huguosi is exactly what you're going to get.
这样一个地方几乎是无可挑剔的。简单、货真价实而且非常非常便宜。在护国寺，你看到的是什么，吃到的就是什么。
Beijing Hotel
北京饭店
Having skimped on dessert, you can count up the change in your pocket and head out for some drinks.
既然在点心上省了钱，你就可以数数自己口袋里的零钱去喝点东西了。
But if you pick the Beijing Hotel, a century-old complex a stone's throw from Tiananmen Square, it might be best to stick to neat spirits. Sadly, you won't get far on the hotel's flat, watery cocktails.
但要是你选择了离天安门广场咫尺之遥、有百年历史的北京饭店，可能最好还是直接选单纯的酒精饮料。这里供应的平淡如水的鸡尾酒是不会让你尽兴的。
Seventy-five yuan seems a little steep for a Tom Collins that is really just a gin and water. A 15% service charge compounds the insult. The verdict: even Lao Zihao can be lousy sometimes.
一杯其实就是杜松子酒加水的汤姆柯林斯要价人民币75元未免有些过高。15%的服务费让人更加肉痛。结论：就算是老字号有时也会让人感觉很糟糕。
For more on Lao Zihao, check out CRT's earlier, unforgettable experience at Beijing's Qing-Feng Dumplings.
更多有关老字号的故事，可查看“中国实时报”记者早些时候在北京庆丰包子铺的难忘经历。
