评论
打印
It was 6:30 on the Friday before Oscars Sunday, and the W editor, Stefano Tonchi, was craving a little quiet time. He was standing in the fortresslike Milk Studios in Hollywood, which was the site of that evening’s Tom Ford fashion show. He had gotten off a flight that afternoon.
奥斯卡颁奖礼前的周五下午6点半，《W》杂志的主编斯特凡诺·通奇(Stefano Tonchi)想要安静一会儿。他站在好莱坞米尔克工作室(Milk Studios)里，这个堡垒般的建筑是当晚汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)时装秀的举办地。当天下午他刚下飞机。
“I got my hotel room at the last minute,” he said, vodka tonic in hand. “I wanted to have a cup of coffee and eat some French fries and sit down and make a phone call.”
“我到最后一刻才订上酒店，”他手里拿着伏特加汤尼水说，“我本想喝杯咖啡，吃点薯条，坐下来打个电话。”
So he headed off to the Sunset Tower’s bar to unwind. That didn’t happen.
所以他前往日落塔酒店(Sunset Tower)的酒吧去放松一下。但他没能如愿以偿。
“There wasn’t one person I didn’t know,” he said, recalling the scene. There was a Burberry executive; a Harper’s Bazaar editor; Rachel Zoe’s husband, Rodger Berman; the fashion habitué Derek Blasberg; and the son of the owner of Tod’s.
“那里的人我都认识，”他回忆起当时的情景。包括博柏利(Burberry)的一个高管、《芭莎》(Harper’s Bazaar)的主编、雷切尔·佐伊(Rachel Zoe)的丈夫罗杰·伯曼(Rodger Berman)、时尚名人德里克·布拉斯伯格(Derek Blasberg)，以及Tod’s所有者的儿子。
The cocktail hour surrounding Mr. Tonchi at Milk Studios was no different: there was John Demsey, the group president of Estée Lauder Companies; Leonard Lauder himself; Anna Wintour; the Cosmopolitan editor, Joanna Coles; and the Lucky editor, Eva Chen. Not to mention the ridiculous number of A-list stars all around, a front row that included Gwyneth Paltrow, Scarlett Johansson, Beyoncé, Jay Z, Miley Cyrus, Julianne Moore and Jennifer Lopez.
在米尔克工作室的鸡尾酒派对上，通奇依然被熟人包围：雅诗兰黛(Estée Lauder)集团的总裁约翰·丹姆塞(John Demsey)、莱昂纳德·劳德(Leonard Lauder)本人、安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)、《Cosmopolitan》的主编乔安娜·科尔斯(Joanna Coles)，以及《Lucky》的主编陈怡桦(Eva Chen)。更不必说还有数量惊人的一线明星，包括格温妮丝·帕特洛(Gwyneth Paltrow)、斯嘉丽·约翰逊(Scarlett Johansson)、碧昂斯(Beyoncé)、Jay Z、麦莉·塞勒斯(Miley Cyrus)、朱利安·摩尔(Julianne Moore)和珍妮弗·洛佩兹(Jennifer Lopez)。
Fashion and the Oscars have gone hand in hand for decades, but it’s never been like this.
几十年来，时尚与奥斯卡一直携手共进，但从未如此亲近。
The Oscars weekend this year wasn’t just the usual smattering of editors grading the red carpet or the spare designer in town to do a fitting. A significant chunk of the New York fashion world (and the fashion world at large) came here to attend Mr. Ford’s show and absorb the craziness of the rest of Oscars weekend. Mr. Ford skipped out on showing in London this year, and these folks, in turn, did exactly the same.
今年的奥斯卡周末不像往年，只有点评红毯造型的时尚编辑，或者协助试衣的本地备用设计师。纽约时尚界（乃至整个时尚界）的很多人来这里观看福特的时装秀，感受奥斯卡周末的别样疯狂。今年，福特没有在伦敦举办时装秀，在场的这些人也都没去。
“The second I heard it,” Ms. Wintour said, when asked when she knew she’d forgo London in favor of Los Angeles to see Mr. Ford. “Tom Ford’s a huge draw. He’s showing here for the first time, and it was a brilliant move on his part.”
当温图尔被问及何时知道自己不会去伦敦而是来洛杉矶观看福特时装秀时，她说，“我一听说就这么决定了。汤姆·福特对我很有吸引力。他是第一次在这里举办时装秀，就他而言可谓明智之举。”
The Oscars usually conflicts with the European collections (two years ago, it was Milan; last year, it was Paris; this year, London), but this was the first time Ms. Wintour would attend the Academy Awards (she attended the Vanity Fair Oscars party once before).
奥斯卡颁奖礼经常与欧洲的时装周在时间上发生冲突（两年前是和米兰时装周，去年是和巴黎时装周，今年是和伦敦时装周），不过这是温图尔第一次参加奥斯卡颁奖礼（她曾参加过《名利场》的一次奥斯卡余兴派对）。
“You’ll be sick of seeing me,” she added, as she made her way into the show.
“你会经常见到我，估计会看烦的，”她在前往时装秀的路上补充说。
Hollywood may be a one-industry town, but it was more than accommodating of the endless amount of fashion parties, lunches and dinners this year.
好莱坞也许只是个电影之城，但是今年这里举办了无数时尚派对、午餐会和晚宴。
“I’ve been living out here for 22 years, working in this business off and on that whole time, and I’ve never seen anything like it,” said Crystal Lourd, the Los Angeles socialite who has worked as a celebrity wrangler for labels like Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren. “I think people realize that it’s a profitable thing for their business to get the exposure.”
“我在这里住了22年，一直断断续续在这个行业工作，从没见过这种情况，”洛杉矶社会名流克里斯特尔·卢尔(Crystal Lourd)说。她的工作是在名人和时装名牌（比如汤姆·福特和拉夫·劳伦[Ralph Lauren]）之间牵线搭桥。“我觉得，人们意识到，让自己的品牌更多地出现在公众面前，能带来商业利益。”
Ms. Lourd was speaking from an event earlier on Feb. 20, a luncheon that Net-a-Porter was hosting for the makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury.
卢尔的这番话是2月20日在Net-a-Porter为彩妆师夏洛特·蒂尔伯里(Tilbury)举办的午宴上说的。
But there was something distinct about this lunch: Ms. Tilbury is a Briton, and there were a whole lot of British accents in this courtyard at the restaurant A.O.C. in Beverly Hills. Shouldn’t these turncoats be in London?
不过，这次午宴有个独特之处：蒂尔伯里是英国人，在贝弗利山A.O.C.餐馆的这个庭院里到处都能听到英国口音。这些“叛徒”不是应该在伦敦吗？
“It’s all about the red carpet,” Ms. Tilbury said. “Who can ignore the red carpet?”
“这全是因为奥斯卡红毯，”蒂尔伯里说，“谁能忽视它呢？”
This was a convenient answer: Ms. Tilbury’s new makeup, Goddess Skin Clay Mask, includes the tag line “The new red carpet beauty secret of the stars.”
下面这个事实正好回答了这个问题：蒂尔伯里的新化妆品女神粘土清洁面膜(Goddess Skin Clay Mask)的广告语是“明星红毯美丽妆容的新秘密”。
“The heat is in L.A. this weekend,” said Lucy Yeomans, the Net-a-Porter and Porter magazine editor, sounding resigned.
“这个周末的热门地点是洛杉矶，”Net-a-Porter网站和《Porter》杂志的主编露西·约曼斯(Lucy Yeomans)无奈地说道。
The model and socialite Poppy Delevingne, who calls London her hometown, was less forgiving.
来自伦敦的模特、社会名流波普伊·德莱文涅(Poppy Delevingne)可没有那么客气。
“We’re sorry, but the sunshine is too tempting,” she said. “To be honest, I’m out here for pilot season. But there are just so many great things going on. This lunch for Charlotte, the Diane von Furstenberg picnic tomorrow, the Chanel dinner tomorrow and Vanity Fair on Sunday. It’s like fashion week out here.”
“我们是有点惭愧，但这里的阳光太诱人了，”她说，“坦白地说，我来这里是为了样片季。不过这里还有很多精彩活动。为夏洛特举办的这个午餐会、明天黛安·冯芙丝汀宝(Diane von Furstenberg)的野餐会和香奈儿(Chanel)的晚宴，以及周日的《名利场》派对。这里简直像时装周。”
Rachel Zoe, the Los Angeles-based stylist, was just a few feet away, and delighted by this.
洛杉矶造型师雷切尔·佐伊就在几英尺之外。她倒是乐于见到这个现象。
“This makes me happy,” she said. “The fashion world has migrated to L.A. in a way that I haven’t seen in I don’t think ever.”
“这让我很高兴，”她说，“时尚界以我所料不及的方式搬到了洛杉矶。”
At Mr. Ford’s show that night, the mood was relaxed, unlike the normal get-in-and-get-out spirit of most fashion shows.
在当晚的福特时装秀上，人们的心情很放松，与大部分时装秀上匆忙赶场的气氛迥然不同。
People arrived for cocktails close to the appointed hour, 6 p.m., and relaxed over vodka and champagne. Ms. Paltrow stood at the bar with three friends for almost 40 minutes before everyone was summoned a little after 7. (Even Ms. Wintour, notorious for bursting out of her seat the second a show ends, mingled after the show.)
约定的时间是下午6点，人们稍微提前到场，喝点伏特加和香槟，放松精神。帕特洛和三位朋友在吧台待了近40分钟，7点多和大家一起被召唤去观看时装秀（时装秀结束后，甚至连温图尔也逗留一会儿。众所周知，以前时装秀一结束，她马上离开）。
“Like we didn’t have enough to do already,” Ms. Paltrow said, laughing. “But you know what? I love the fact that Tom’s saying there aren’t rules in fashion anymore, that there aren’t seasons.”
“就好像我们已经没事可做了似的，”帕特洛大笑着说道。“但是你知道吗？我很喜欢汤姆说出的事实：时尚界不再有规则，不再有所谓的时装季。”
Just don’t tell that to the British designers.
别把这些告诉英国的设计师们。
Mr. Ford said he knew he would have no problems filling this room, either with celebrities or big-time editors. He knew in his heart the attraction of Oscars week.
福特说，他知道，让这个房间坐满并不难，不管是名人还是大牌编辑。他打心底里清楚“奥斯卡周”的魅力。
“My agent’s at C.A.A., and the C.A.A. party is right after this,” he said, after the show, referring to the pre-Oscars party hosted by the Creative Artists Agency. “I go every year and know people get dressed up on Friday night. I used to have an Oscars party on Thursday night. It started with 70 people, and it went up to about 250 people. I had people offering to buy my Oscar party slot on Thursday night because they knew I swept up a lot of people.”
“我的经纪公司是创意艺术家代理公司(Creative Artists Agency)，他们的派对就在我的时装秀之后举行，”他在时装秀结束后说。他指的是创意艺术家代理公司举办的奥斯卡前奏派对。“我每年都去，知道人们会在周五晚上盛装前往。我曾在周四晚上举办过一个奥斯卡派对。一开始是70个人的规模，后来增加到约250人。有人甚至提出购买周四晚上我举办奥斯卡派对的那个时段，因为他们知道我能吸引很多人。”
He hasn’t held the party in a few years, he said, but he learned a valuable lesson: “I knew these people were in town, they were all friends and hopefully they had to come.”
他说，最近几年他没有举办奥斯卡派对，不过他得到了一个宝贵的经验：“我知道这些人都在城里，他们都是朋友，所以很可能都会来。”
Like Ms. Johansson.
比如斯嘉丽·约翰逊。
“It’s unexpected to see an event like this in L.A. more than anything,” she said from her front-row seat. “I remember Fashion Week in L.A., which feels like a relic from the past.”
“洛杉矶会举办这样一个活动真是出人意料，”她坐在前排说，“我还记得洛杉矶时装周，感觉像是一个历史遗迹。”
If Fashion Week in Los Angeles isn’t making a roaring comeback, then the fashion world has conceded it has to have a permanent place out here, at least for this weekend.
即便洛杉矶时装周没有高调回归，时尚界也已承认，它必须在这里拥有永恒的地位，至少在这个周末。
The Italian label Armani is no stranger to dressing celebrities, but it has finally ritualized an event: a pre-Oscars cocktail party, which began last year.
意大利品牌阿玛尼(Armani)是为名人设计服装的老手，不过它最终把一个活动变成了固定项目：去年开始的奥斯卡前奏鸡尾酒派对。
“My uncle invented a business that didn’t exist before,” said Roberta Armani, from the terrace of the Armani store on North Rodeo Drive. “In the ’80s, he dressed celebrities when no one did it.”
“我叔叔开创了一个前所未有的生意，”罗伯塔·阿玛尼(Roberta Armani)在北罗德奥大道阿玛尼店铺的阳台上说，“20世纪80年代，他开始给名人设计服装，以前没人这么做过。”
Armani held a couture show here eight years ago, the weekend before the Oscars, which was similarly star-studded. Ms. Armani said that it was time to put something more permanent on the schedule by hosting this party, which included Cate Blanchett and Chris Pine.
八年前，在奥斯卡颁奖礼前的周末，阿玛尼在这里举办了一场高级定制时装秀，也是明星云集。罗伯塔·阿玛尼说，举办这个派对是为了把某种更为永久性的东西安排到日程上。参加派对的有凯特·布兰切特(Cate Blanchett)和克里斯·派恩(Chris Pine)。
Later Saturday evening, Ms. Wintour and the designer Tommy Hilfiger went to a Harvey Weinstein dinner, and Chanel, along with Charles Finch, held a dinner of its own at Madeo, which included Jessica Chastain, Kristen Stewart and Keira Knightley.
周六深夜，温图尔和设计师汤米·希尔费格(Tommy Hilfiger)参加了哈维·温斯坦(Harvey Weinstein)的晚宴。香奈儿和查尔斯·芬奇(Charles Finch)在Madeo餐馆举办了自己的晚宴，到场明星包括杰西卡·查斯坦(Jessica Chastain)、克里斯汀·斯图尔特(Kristen Stewart)和凯拉·奈特利(Keira Knightley)。
Earlier that day, Ms. von Furstenberg and Barry Diller held their annual pre-Oscars picnic for a crowd of a little more than 400 at their estate in Beverly Hills. Among the media moguls (Les Moonves, Jeff Bezos, Rupert Murdoch), there were a bunch of models who stood out conspicuously among the picnic blankets. Ms. Wintour sat at a picnic table and ate lunch with Mr. Ford’s husband, Richard Buckley.
当天早些时候，冯芙丝汀宝和巴里·迪勒(Barry Diller)在贝弗利山宅邸举办了年度奥斯卡前奏野餐会，出席者达400多人。野餐会上，媒体大亨(包括莱斯利·穆弗斯[Les Moonves]、杰夫·贝佐斯[Jeff Bezos]、鲁伯特·默多克[Rupert Murdoch]）云集，一群模特在野餐毯上显得格外醒目。温图尔坐在野餐桌边，和福特的丈夫理查德·巴克利(Richard Buckley)一起吃着午餐。
One night later, at the Vanity Fair Oscars after-party, no one was working the room harder than the Valentino public relations chief, Carlos Souza.
第二天晚上，在《名利场》的奥斯卡余兴派对上，没人比华伦天奴(Valentino)的公关总监卡洛斯·索萨(Carlos Souza)更忙碌。
“Julianne!” he screamed at Ms. Moore, who was racing out of the party with her Oscar in hand. “Carlos from Valentino.”
“朱利安！”他冲着摩尔喊道。后者正手握奥斯卡奖座快步离开派对，“我是华伦天奴的卡洛斯。”
She stopped and they hugged. He examined her Oscar.
她停下脚步，他们拥抱了一下。他仔细查看她的奥斯卡奖座。
It may as well have been a Valentino event. There were models galore (Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Gigi Hadid) and designers, including the Calvin Klein creative director, Francisco Costa, and Mr. Hilfiger. Mr. Costa dressed Lupita Nyong’o in a dress that featured 6,000 pearls (and was stolen from her hotel room).
这简直像是华伦天奴举办的活动。派对上有很多模特（琼·斯莫尔[Joan Smalls]、卡莉·克洛斯[Karlie Kloss]、吉吉·哈迪德[Gigi Hadid]）和设计师，包括Calvin Klein的创意总监弗朗西斯科·科斯塔(Francisco Costa)和希尔费格。科斯塔给露皮塔·尼永奥(Lupita Nyong’o)设计的连衣裙上镶有6000颗珍珠（这件裙子在她的酒店房间被偷走了）。
“I flew out to L.A. on Friday morning right after my show,” Mr. Costa wrote by email, after the party. “It’s really critical for me to be there for the final fittings as that’s where the magic happens.”
“周五早上，时装秀一结束，我就飞往洛杉矶，”派对结束后，科斯塔在邮件中写道，“我到现场协助最后的试穿很重要，因为那里是奇迹发生的地方。”
Mr. Hilfiger said that he had been coming out here for about six years.
希尔费格说，大概在过去六年里，每年的这个时候他都来这里。
“There’s always some sort of business benefit to this,” he said. “I also went out because my daughter recently had a baby, I came to visit my grandchild, and my son Richard is dating Rita Ora. She performed at Harvey’s event and the Oscars.”
“来这儿总会获得一些商业益处，”他说，“我来这里的另一个原因是我女儿刚生了孩子，我来看外孙。我儿子理查德(Richard)正在和丽塔·奥拉(Rita Ora)交往。她是哈维的晚宴和奥斯卡颁奖礼上的表演嘉宾。”
At the Vanity Fair party, when Jason Wu wanted his picture taken with another guest, he turned and asked the designer Zac Posen, who was just a foot away, to do it. Mr. Wu spent the rest of his night with the actress and fashion fixture Diane Kruger.
在《名利场》的派对上，吴季刚想和另一位嘉宾合影，他转身让一英尺外的设计师扎克·波森(Zac Posen)帮忙拍照。当晚的其余时间，吴季刚和女演员、时尚名人黛安·克鲁格(Diane Kruger)在一起。
“At some point, I turned around, and said to Diane, ‘Are we at an Oscars party or a fashion party?’ ” he said. “You turn around, there’s Karlie, there’s Joan, there’s Anna. It’s a New York story happening in Los Angeles.”
“有一个时刻，我环顾四周，对黛安说，‘我们是在奥斯卡派对上，还是在时尚派对上？’”他说，“你看看，卡莉、 琼、安娜。这是把纽约搬到了洛杉矶。”
