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Mr Porter Goes East to Find Fresh Looks
男装购物网站Mr Porter去东方寻找新鲜造型
Limited Edition
限量版
Although spring and summer clothing is now hitting the stores, fashion editors and buyers are looking toward the fall as they jet off to the fashion shows in London, Milan and Paris. Representatives of Mr Porter will celebrate London men’s fashion week with an unveiling of six collections featuring emerging brands previously unavailable outside Japan, in collaboration with Beams, a Japanese department store.
虽然春夏服装正在到店，但是时尚编辑和买家们在展望秋季服装，因为他们开始启程前去观看伦敦、米兰和巴黎的时装秀。为了庆祝伦敦男装周，Mr Porter的代表们与日本百货公司Beams合作，推出来自新兴品牌的六个系列，这些品牌之前不曾在日本以外的地方销售。
“First and foremost, we wanted to ensure that these collections had universal appeal, and having contributors from six different brands allowed us that versatility,” said Daniel Todd, a buyer at Mr Porter. “Each brand has a real point of difference, so there is something in there for everyone without having to dilute the story behind each collection. Teatora, for example, makes outstanding technical travel suits whereas orSlow has a fantastic denim offering.”
Mr Porter的采购员丹尼尔·托德(Daniel Todd)说：“最重要的是，我们想确保这些系列受到普遍欢迎，六个不同品牌的产品让我们变得多样化。每个品牌都有真正的独特之处，所以每个人都能找到自己喜欢的，不必淡化每个系列背后的故事。比如，Teatora生产出色的有技术含量的旅行装，orSlow生产很棒的牛仔裤。”
London Meets Fukui
伦敦遇见福井
Specs
专业人员
In Fukui, a coastal city in western Japan, there is a centuries-old community of optical artisans called Shokunin who have been making eyewear, using local titanium and acetate, through a 200-step process. Rohan Dhir, the founder of the London-based online retailer Archibald Optics, is collaborating with the artisans to create slightly retro eyeglasses and shades that bring together British design and Japanese know-how.
在日本西部沿海城市福井，有一个有几百年历史的眼镜手工艺人（手工艺人在日本被称为职人[Shokunin]——译注）群体。他们采用当地产的钛和醋酸盐，经过200道工序制作眼镜。伦敦在线零售商Archibald Optics的创始人罗恩·迪尔(Rohan Dhir)正在与这些手工艺人合作，制造略微复古的眼镜和墨镜，把英国的设计与日本的技术结合起来。
It’s Back!
回归了！
Consider
考虑一下吧
Who would have thought that the fanny pack, long considered an accessory of the clueless tourist, would find its way to the spring 2016 men’s collections? Designers including Tomas Maier and Lemaire have new interpretations of this onetime fashion “don’t.” Saturdays, a brand with an emphasis on surf wear, has introduced a fanny pack in collaboration with the Japanese accessories company Porter-Yoshida. (To put distance between the fanny pack’s fashionable present and its unstylish past, most brands now call it a “waist bag.”) “The waist bag is a perfect travel companion for the man on the run,” said Morgan Collett, a Saturdays founder.
长期以来，腰包被认为是无知游客的配饰，谁能想到它会进入2016年的春季男装系列？托马斯·梅尔(Tomas Maier)和勒迈尔(Lemaire)等设计师对这个曾经的时尚“禁品”进行了新的诠释。主要做冲浪服装的Saturdays与日本配饰公司 Porter-Yoshida合作推出一款腰包（为了把现在时尚的新设计和过去不时尚的设计区别开来，大部分品牌不把腰包称为fanny pack，而是称为waist bag）。Saturdays的创始人摩根·科利特(Morgan Collett)说：“对奔忙的男人来说，腰包是完美的旅行伴侣。”
O.K., maybe we’ll consider it.
好吧，我们也许会考虑它的。
A Fashion Alliance
时装公司的联盟
Collaboration
合作
Closed, a family-run German fashion brand founded in 1978 that is known for its denim, has hired Hirofumi Kurino, a founder of the Japanese company United Arrows, to produce two styles of men’s chinos. “Closed and United Arrows have the same positive vibration and seriousness to be a human-oriented company,” said Mr. Kurino (shown). “The high-level production skill and the rich archive from Closed, together with the sincerity of Japanese fabric and the smart United Arrows taste — that makes a good chemistry.”
创立于1978年的德国家族时装品牌Closed以牛仔裤闻名，它聘请日本时装公司United Arrows的创始人栗野博文(Hirofumi Kurino)生产两种风格的男士牛仔裤。栗野博文（如图）说：“Closed和United Arrows具有相同的乐观精神和认真态度，都是以人为本的公司。Closed高水平的生产技术和丰富的历史资料，加上日本面料的真诚和United Arrows的时尚品味，会产生很好的化学反应。”
A Style Assist From Abroad
来自国外的时尚助手
Men’s Style Reads
男装时尚读物
“In the twenty-first century, it is now conventional wisdom that the Japanese ‘do Americana better than Americans,’” W. David Marx writes in his new book, “Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style.”
W·大卫·马克斯(W. David Marx)在他的新书《Ametora：日本如何拯救了美国时尚》(Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style)中写道：“在21世纪，大家公认，日本人‘比美国人更擅长创造美国风情’。”
With its affectionate takes on classic men’s wear, from bluejeans to Oxford shirts, Japan’s fashion industry has had a longstanding relationship withAmerican style. In a step-by-step account, Mr. Marx traces the history of this cross-cultural sartorial phenomenon, from the Brooks Brothers-influenced “Ivy League” look introduced by the fashion magnate Kensuke Ishizu in 1959 all the way up to Tokyo’s neo-traditionalist designers of recent years.
日本时装业一直厚爱经典男装，比如蓝色牛仔裤和牛津布衬衫，所以与美国风尚保持着长久的关系。马克斯一步一步地追溯这种跨文化制衣现象的历史，从1959年时装巨头石津健介(Kensuke Ishizu)引入受Brooks Brothers影响的“常春藤盟校”造型一直到近些年东京的新传统主义设计师。
