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就像天马行空的巴黎男装秀

来源:可可英语 编辑:shaun   可可英语APP下载 |  可可官方微信:ikekenet

Out here at the Paris menswear shows, I asked a buyer from a major London store: how will the Brexit vote affect their business? He breathed heavily. Their margins on new season deliveries have already been obliterated by the collapse of the pound. Those pieces were ordered a few months ago but still not paid for yet. How it affects the volume and scope of they’re about to order for next season? Who knows.

我在巴黎男装周现场询问一位来自伦敦某大型百货店的买手:英国脱欧(Brexit)公投影响了生意吗?他立马变得神情紧张。由于英镑大幅贬值,这个新时装季的订单利润空间已经荡然无存。这批订单几个月前就定了,但相应货款仍未支付。脱欧结果如何影响下个时装季的订单数量和类别,目前不得而知。

There are so many repercussions to the fashion industry, many of them affecting the new generation. Young British designers often rely on European factories to produce their clothing at an affordable cost. Will new import duties now make this prohibitive? What about the young graduates who move freely to Milan or Paris to take jobs in the design studios at major luxury houses?

英国脱欧对整个时装业造成了多重冲击,很多连锁反应祸及了英国的年轻设计师。这批年轻设计师往往倚仗欧洲大陆厂家(以低廉价格)代加工成品。英国脱欧后,新的进口税会让生产成本高得离谱吗?那些自愿前往米兰与巴黎奢侈品大牌设计室高就的新锐设计师前景又将怎样呢?

This came to mind at Givenchy. I can think of two British graduates whose work has had a major impact on the Givenchy signature of loud graphics and sportswear cuts. Graduates like them are at every luxury house, their work unsung yet often of profound affect. It’s the sort of job where they turn up at short notice and then stay for years. With borders closed, will future graduates be denied such opportunities, and will their absence lessen creativity at conglomerates?

这不由得让我想起了纪梵希(Givenchy),两位英国年轻设计师,他们对于纪梵希久负盛名的花哨图案与运动装设计立下大功。这样的设计新锐遍布每家奢侈品公司,他们的工作默默无闻,但往往影响深远;他们从事的是那些招之即来、而后能扎根多年的设计工作。英国与欧洲大陆的边境再次闭上后,这些未来的设计新锐会失去此类工作机会吗?抑或说他们的缺席会削弱那些时尚巨擎的创意能力吗?

Givenchy could already do with more free-flowing ideas. It’s spring/summer 17 show was an exercise in product that looked too factory-made, not helped by the women’s couture tagged on to the end, all the work of the hand. On the men’s, dollar prints were blurred and mashed to create an effect like camouflage. Pyramids and eye prints were meant to suggest serenity. Pinstriped tailoring was banal. What happened to the tension that used to infuse the label?

纪梵希是汪洋恣肆设计理念的饯行者。其2017年春夏季时装周就是个有益尝试:模样酷似厂家生产的时装均为纯手工打造,并没有借用其标志性高级女装的款式来助推;男装上的美元印图则设计成了模糊与散乱样,以营造出伪装服的特效;金字塔与眼睛图案旨在显露恬静意味;而其细条纹定制装则是平淡无奇。纪梵希过去根深蒂固的强烈反差感跑哪儿去啦?

There’s been some strong work the past couple of days, especially the Fornasetti collaboration at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, with those circular black and white faces used like large polka dots on suits. Also excellent were the shirts and sweaters with illustrations by Noah Lyon at Comme’s subsidiary label SHIRT. At Acne Studios, the waterproofs were fresh and desirable, particularly a blue zip-up mac with a bonded plaid lining. Meanwhile Kenzo snapped sharp into focus with work inspired by New York club kids, though it made me think of another site of hedonism. In their pastel nylon zip-ups, loose print shirts worn open and logo T-shirts, many of the models looked directly transposed from Glastonbury, still awake at 10am, on their way to find another party. Hey! Take me with you!

不久前,时尚界推出了好几款珠联璧合的力作,尤以弗纳塞提(Fornasetti)与川久保玲旗下男装Comme des Garçons Homme Plus男装的合作为甚,其采用黑白圆脸图案就像西服上的大圆点花纹。诺亚•里昂(Noah Lyon)为Comme des Garçons从属品牌SHIRT的衬衣与毛衣设计的插图同样赏心悦目。Acne Studios的防水装显得既新颖别致又称心如意,尤其是带格子粘合衬的拉链款蓝色橡胶雨衣。与此同时,高田贤三(Kenzo)推出的怪异装(其设计灵感来自纽约Club Kids,即上世纪80年代末至90年代初纽约那些穿着另类、放浪形骸的年轻人)一经推出就引发万众瞩目,尽管它让我想起了另一醉生梦死之地。模特们穿上高田贤三的淡色尼龙拉链装、敞胸的宽松印花衬衣以及带有品牌标识的T恤衫后,模样酷似刚从格拉斯顿伯里音乐节(Glastonbury)尽情而归的歌迷,上午10点钟仍毫无睡意,还兴致正浓地物色下个嗨场。嘿,我也算一分子!

Dior Homme was better than usual, one of creative director Kris Van Assche’s best at the brand. It had a fashion attitude in its use of punk harnessing, and neat ideas in its tailored blousons. Over at Balmain, its recently announced acquisition by a Qatari private investment fund — already owners of Valentino and Anya Hindmarch — led to a fresh optimism. A few minutes before his audacious show, I asked creative director Olivier Rousteing how long he has known about the deal. “We were in the process for six months, a year,” he said. Rousteing is one of those designer names often linked to other vacant designer jobs, but he says he is happy where he is. “It has been a long journey but I’m really happy and looking forward to a new chapter in my life and the Balmain life.”

今年的迪奥男装(Dior Homme)胜过以往,算是创意总监克里斯•万艾思(Kris Van Assche)的巅峰之作。他在定制款夹克衫上运用了朋克风格的背带(punk harnessing)以及小巧优雅的设计理念,显得时尚味十足。而卡塔尔某私募基金(它也是安雅•希德玛芝(Anya Hindmarch)与华伦天奴(Valentino)的所有者)并购巴尔曼(Balmain)的消息最近一经公布,乐观情绪立马弥漫业界上下。距其惊世骇俗的时尚发布会开幕仅几分钟之时,我询问创意总监Olivier Rousteing多久前获悉这场并购交易。“双方洽谈了有半年时间,我一年前才获悉此事。”他对我说。Rousteing往往是与那些空缺设计师职位联系在一起的名字,但他说自己对目前的一切非常满意。“一路走到今天费尽艰辛,但我真的很快乐,期待翻开自己人生以及在巴尔曼历史的新篇章。”

Behind us was a clutch of models in full pale denim looks: denim jacket over denim kaftan worn with denim shorts over what looked like denim jeggings. That’s a jean morphed with a legging. I’ve always admired anyone brave enough to do double denim, let alone quadruple. This long show pushed the embellishment for which it is known beyond previously known bounds — one model attempted nonchalance in a metallic poncho decorated with huge blue stones.

我们身后站了几位身穿清一色淡牛仔装的模特:上身是套于牛仔长衫上的牛仔夹克,下穿套于牛仔打底紧身裤的牛仔短裤。本人一直膜拜把衣裤全设计成牛仔装的那些设计师(觉得他们勇气可嘉),对四件套都设计成牛仔装的设计师更是佩服得五体投地。这场为时很长的时装秀的配饰设计(它正是凭此声名大噪)突破了以往所有时尚界限——模特身穿装饰巨大的蓝宝石、闪着金属光泽的披风时,神情显得异常淡定。

But what really sung were the more humble knit pieces, though no less bold intheir strong bands of block colour: orange, yellow, red, blue and black. A knit sweater, a buttonless long knit cardigan, a knit T-shirt, blanket knit trackpants. Yes, I did just type those words. Obviously the same colour blocking came in bolero jackets that were beaded and jewelled and encrusted. Really, the whole thing was a ball.

但是,真正点赞的是那些不起眼的针织装,尽管其艳丽的色块带(橙黄红蓝黑等颜色)异常醒目:针织毛衣、长款无扣针织开襟毛衣、针织T恤以及厚款针织运动裤。没错,我的确只是寥寥数语点到而已。很显然,同样的“色彩重组”(colour blocking)现象也运用于前襟开敞、用珍珠、首饰以及镶饰点缀的女式短上衣中。事实上,这一切是一场时尚盛宴。

Anyway wanting a textbook example of misguided decisions should look no further than Berluti, which has drifted far from being a house of eccentric but enlightened creativity. Its previous creative director, Alessandro Sartori, had cultivated an air of appropriateness at this storied Parisian shoemaker-turned-clothier. He has headed back to his old home of Zegna, and in his absence owners LVMH decided to throw a pool party. With no actual pool.

不管怎么说,阴差阳错的经典误导例子非伯鲁提(Berluti)莫属,它已大大“背离”了自己赖以成名的设计另类但启迪无限创意的品牌公司形象。在这家由鞋履转为成衣的巴黎知名时尚公司,前任创意总监亚历山德罗•萨托利(Alessandro Sartori)营造了中庸氛围。但他如今已转投老东家杰尼亚(Zegna),他离开后,伯鲁提的主家路威酩轩(LVMH)决定举办一场泳池酒会。实际上并无泳池。

In a large garden scattered with inflatable chairs and flamingoes, various models were given various tasks, announced over speakers. First was a skipping rope competition, undertaken to Hot Stuff by Donna Summer. One of the models won the skipping, though it is not clear if this was actually for his skipping skills or just scripted reality. As he was given his trophy, they played We Are The Champions by Queen.

在散布着充气椅子与火烈鸟的巨大花园中,各式模特被赋予了不同任务,这一切通过喇叭宣布。首先是在唐娜•萨默(Donna Summer)Hot Stuff乐曲伴奏下的跳绳比赛。其中一位模特获得了跳绳大赛冠军,尽管这是由于其跳绳水平高、抑或只是“按部就班”不得而知。颁奖时,伴奏乐则换成了皇后乐队(Queen)的《We Are The Champions 》。

Editors on their inflatable unicorns gave each other that look: what are we doing with our lives? The actual collection was shoved in some beach huts on the periphery. Berluti clothing can easily go for four figures. Near the beach huts, some people played with water pistols, their jets of water straying close to the rails. No one cared.

坐在充气椅上的时尚编辑们面面相觑:我们来这里是干什么来着?真正的时装展在周边的海滩小屋里举行。伯鲁提的时装轻轻松松就能卖到几千美元高价。在海滩小屋不远处,一些人在用玩具喷水枪嬉闹,喷出的水柱喷到了小屋围栏边,但无人在意。

But wait, there’s the model dumbbell competition. And a hula-hoop round. Berluti dumbbells and skipping ropes will apparently be available to buy — just what nobody ever wanted. No word on a Berluti hula-hoop. It was the total opposite of an on-message. Please, whether there’s a named creative director or not, be a brand that does work of worth, then have pride in the results of that labour. Otherwise, don’t bother.

另外,主办者还举办了哑铃以及转呼拉圈比赛。伯鲁提的哑铃与跳绳很显然可以买到——只是没人想要。伯鲁提的呼拉圈上也无任何字样,这完全与时尚界的固定套路背道而驰。但请记住,时尚品牌不管有无指定的创意总监,首先得做有意义的事,而后才有资格对自己的辛勤劳动引以为豪。否则的话,还是省了这份劲吧。

重点单词   查看全部解释    
produce [prə'dju:s]

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n. 产品,农作物
vt. 生产,提出,引起,

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vacant ['veikənt]

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adj. 空的,空虚的,木然的

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cultivated ['kʌltiveitid]

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adj. 栽植的,有教养的
动词cultiva

 
pride [praid]

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n. 自豪,骄傲,引以自豪的东西,自尊心
vt

 
collaboration [kə.læbə'reiʃən]

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n. 合作,通敌

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optimism ['ɔptimizəm]

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n. 乐观,乐观主义

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knit [nit]

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vt. 编织,密接,结合,皱眉
vi. 编织,

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creative [kri'eitiv]

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adj. 创造性的

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subsidiary [səb'sidiəri]

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adj. 辅助的,附属的 n. 子公司,附属机构

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lessen ['lesn]

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v. 减少,变小,减轻

 


关键字: 男装秀 巴黎

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