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欧美二手名牌时装网店走红(下)

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Wainwright can see the potential for attracting those who shop at the highest end.

温赖特十分清楚能够吸引那些高端购物者的巨大商机。

A key growth area of The RealReal is jewellery.

The RealReal增长最快的领域是首饰。

We’ve set up valuation offices for fine jewels and watches in New York, Chicago, San Francisco and Los Angeles where you can meet with a gemologist and get a report about what they would sell for.

我们在纽约、芝加哥、旧金山以及洛杉矶等地建立了高档首饰与腕表的估价办公室,委托人可与宝石专家见面,获得自己二手奢侈品的评估报告。

It’s totally different to the pawnshop experience.

这与典当行截然不同。

Onsite you’ll find special edition Rolexes selling for more than $40,000 and Cartier bracelets for more than $10,000.

消费者能在网店上淘到售价4万多美元的限量版劳力士腕表与售价1万多美元的卡地亚(Cartier)手镯。

Noting the success of these womenswear platforms, in 2014 Arun Gupta started menswear market place Grailed — a reference to that specific piece you obsess over owning, but can’t ever find or afford.

看到二手女装在线销售平台的成功后,2014年,古普塔(Arun Gupta)创建了Grailed男装网店——特指个人觊觎已久、但苦寻无踪或是超出自己财力之物。

The site began in his bedroom after he trained himself to code.

古普塔自从学会编码方法后,就在自己卧室创建了Grailed网店。

In the week we speak, 50,000 items were on the site.

就在接受我采访的那一周里,Grailed网店上架了5万件男装。

The team has also just launched a content platform, Dry Clean Only, to profile and discuss the items on Grailed.

此外它最近还成立了内容平台Dry Clean Only,对Grailed网店销售的男装进行简介与评价。

When we started out there were five to 10 women’s marketplaces, already fairly popular, he explains.

我们成立伊始,已有5-10家知名度很高的二手奢侈女装网店在运营,他解释道。

A fashion obsessive, like Wainwright and Moizant he noticed that the second-hand gems came from personal connections, rather than surfing eBay.

作为与温赖特以及莫藏一样的时尚痴迷者,古普塔留意到二手首饰往往从私人关系圈、而非eBay淘得。

Not having much money to spend, I spent hours on the internet looking for deals. I found the best prices — and best pieces — always came from friends or other enthusiasts on key menswear forums.

自己余钱不多,所以在网上淘宝,我发现最低价格永远来自自己的好友或是各大男装论坛上的时尚痴迷者。

On Grailed, bestsellers are very much what’s currently big in stores; Saint Laurent, Raf Simons and Rick Owens, and streetwear brands such as Supreme and Palace, though the site also has a reputation for playing host to rare gems, such as Simons pieces from the 2000s.

Grailed上的畅销货往往与实体店的热销款大同小异;圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)、拉夫•西蒙斯(Raf Simons)以及瑞克•欧文斯(Rick Owens)等时尚名品以及Supreme与Palace等街装品牌的二手货异常抢手,尽管Grailed还时常销售稀缺款宝石(如产自21世纪初的拉夫•西蒙斯宝石)。

Gupta takes a low commission; 6 per cent.

古普塔只收取6%的佣金。

He identifies the same two user patterns as Vestiaire’s Moizant.

与Vestiaire的莫藏一样,他也发现了客户的两大相同消费模式。

Some people are specifically looking for rare items to add to their ever-growing collections — we’re one of the few places you can find rare Japanese brands like Undercover and Julius.

有些消费者为了增加自己藏品而专淘稀品——我们是少数几家可淘到Undercover与Julius等日本稀有品牌的其中一家网店。

At the same time many people are just looking for good deals.

与此同时,很多消费者就想找物美价廉的二手货。

So what do the brands have to say? Legally they have no right to complain, thanks to the precedent set by pivotal case Tiffany Inc vs eBay Inc in 2010.

那么,各大品牌对此有何看法?从法律层面说,它们没有申诉权利,这都要归功于2010年蒂芙尼(Tiffany)起诉eBay的关键判例。

Ebay won. Brands were told that they can’t control the resale market.

法庭最初判eBay胜诉,各大品牌被明确告知eBay等网店难以控制再卖市场。

That case is so clear that there’s no obstacles for us to sell something that is previously owned, says Wainwright.

该判例清晰明了,所以我们销售二手货在法律上毫无障碍。温赖特说。

We’re not going anywhere. The world has changed.

我们并非四处出击,现在跟那时早就不一样了。

And at some point brands are going to have to realise that.

总有一天,各大品牌会明白这一点。

Less than 5 per cent of The RealReal’s sales come from vendors, though Wainwright sees growing ways to collaborate with brands now their relationship has mellowed.

虽然The RealReal与各大品牌的合作方式越来越多(如今双方关系日趋紧密),但只有不到5%的销售额来自小二。

They are going through an evolution.

各大品牌对我们代销网站的态度经历了演变过程。

Our first year, I heard they hated us.

The RealReal成立第一年,我听说它们对其恨之入骨。

Now, they’re keen to find a way to work together.

如今,他们挖空心思找法子与我们合作。

They’ve realised they can maybe learn something from our data.

对方意识到也许可以从我们的客户数据库了解相关情况。

In her mind, they should be grateful.

在温赖特看来,各大品牌应对RealReal心存感激。

This year, we’re going to put into our consignors’ hands, all of whom are in the US right now, $220m in payment.

今年,我们打算把2.2亿美元的返款全部交给二手奢侈品委托人(他们如今全在美国)。

They’ll use the money they make from the site to go back into the store to buy new — they’ll go and buy more.

他们会用这笔钱进实体店买新奢侈品——他们肯定会大买特买。

What they buy will be increasingly shaped by the resale market.

而消费者的购物习惯将越来越取决于二手时装市场。

One of Wainwright’s proudest achievements is the way she’s slowly affecting the luxury market and changing how people shop — particularly by putting the spotlight on the true value of specific pieces and popular brands.

温赖特最引以为豪的是,自己正逐渐影响奢侈品市场以及正改变消费者的购物模式——尤其是让消费者对特定款式与流行品牌的真实价值一清二楚。

The lack of lasting appeal for some key houses is evident in the sites’ pricing and sales and may surprise.

有些大品牌的吸引力难以为继,在网店的定价与销售额量就已一目了然,这可能会出乎业界意料。

Although changes within a brand can do a lot to create resale buzz.

然而品牌内部的人事变动对于自身二手品的热销与否也会有巨大作用。

Two-and-a-half years ago, Gucci had really bad resale value, offers Wainwright, citing the recent appointment of Alessandro Michele as a turning point. Now it’s right up there — it’s big.

两年前,古驰(Gucci)的二手货售价差强人意。温赖特主动说道,并说古驰最近聘请亚历山德罗•米歇尔(Alessandro Michele)出任创意总监成为其转折点。

They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.

如今古驰又成了高大上的抢手品牌,它又焕发出勃勃生机,消费者对其趋之若鹜,因此现在甚至米歇尔之前几位创意总监设计的古驰(尤其是带标识的那些类别)都容易出手——它又变得价值不菲了。

She feels resale educates consumers, giving them power and knowledge.

她认为二手奢侈品的买卖很好地教育了消费者,让其增加了信心、增长了见识。

Our shoppers look to check the resale value of things.

我们的消费者期望检验二手奢侈品的价格。

They do notice if a brand has no resale value and move away from it.

他们真的注意到:如果该品牌没有二次销售价值,他们就会移情其它品牌。

When I meet consignors they always say ‘You’ve changed the way I shop.’

我与委托人见面时,他们总是这样说:‘您改变了我的购物模式。’

重点单词   查看全部解释    
specific [spi'sifik]

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adj. 特殊的,明确的,具有特效的
n. 特

联想记忆
reference ['refrəns]

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n. 参考,出处,参照
n. 推荐人,推荐函<

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supreme [sju:'pri:m]

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adj. 最高的,至上的,极度的

 
luxury ['lʌkʃəri]

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n. 奢侈,豪华,奢侈品

 
appeal [ə'pi:l]

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n. 恳求,上诉,吸引力
n. 诉诸裁决

联想记忆
keen [ki:n]

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adj. 锋利的,敏锐的,强烈的,精明的,热衷的 <

 
potential [pə'tenʃəl]

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adj. 可能的,潜在的
n. 潜力,潜能

 
payment ['peimənt]

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n. 支付,付款,报偿,报应

 
lasting ['læstiŋ]

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adj. 永久的,永恒的
动词last的现在分

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previously ['pri:vju:sli]

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adv. 先前,在此之前

 

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