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纳粹集团对时尚行业的10点惊人影响(上)

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The Third Reich left a lasting imprint on the world. The legacy of Adolf Hitler and his Nazi Party is almost impossibly vile and vast. Starting the biggest war this planet has ever seen while committing multiple genocides on an unprecedented scale is a surefire way to stick in the minds of people forever. But Nazi Germany's influence exists in all sorts of other peculiar ways as well.

第三帝国给这个世界留下了深深的烙印。阿道夫·希特勒和他的纳粹军团留给世界的几乎只有罪恶——发动全球有史以来最大规模的种族性大屠杀就足以让人们永远记住他们的“光辉事迹”。但是除此之外,德国纳粹军的影响同样以各种令人意想不到的形式展现出来。
Here is a list of 10 ways the Fuhrer and his collaborators influenced the world of fashion.
以下就是希特勒和他的纳粹军团对世界潮流的影响。

10.They Cared About Style

10.纳粹风格的形成

Nazi

The Nazis may well have been as close to evil as we have ever seen, but they understood branding. Senior Nazi and Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph Goebbels knew all about the power of appearance. He knew that scruffy combat fatigues instill very little fear in people. But pristine uniforms tailored to make the wearer look as tall, broad, and imposing as possible have an intense impact.

在我们眼里,纳粹党如同恶魔般的存在,但他们确实懂时尚。纳粹军团的高级领袖兼纳粹德国时期宣传部部长约瑟夫·戈培尔深知表面视觉效果的力量。他认为破旧的军服不足以给人们很强的威慑力,而经过精心裁剪后的传统军装却能使人显得高大、伟岸,甚至给人紧张压迫感。
Goebbels was a stickler for precision, especially when it came to fashion. It is rumored that he owned hundreds of suits so that he would never have to wear the same one twice in any given calendar year.
戈培尔是一个高度重视细节的人,尤其在时尚方面。传闻道,戈培尔有几百套正装,就是为了不出现同一套西装穿两次的情况。
By insisting on having such a recognizable look, Goebbels was instilling in the Nazis a strong brand presence. Never before had military aggression and fashion come together so forcefully. And it made a big impact. The world of high fashion has shown signs of military—and specifically Nazi—influence ever since.
通过强调外表的辨识度,戈培尔成功地给纳粹军灌输了高度的品牌形象意识。在这之前,军队和时尚不可能这么紧密地结合,可以说,这是纳粹的一个创举——从那时开始,时尚界开始出现军队风,尤其是纳粹风。

9.Their Uniforms Are Now The Go-To For 'Evil'

9.纳粹制服成为“邪恶风”的首选

Nazi

Since their birth in the 1930s, Nazi uniforms have served as a benchmark for "evil" costume design. Given the scope of their crimes and the staggering level of atrocities the Nazis were responsible for, it is no huge surprise that modern fiction often stylizes its villains as Nazi-esque.

从上世纪三十年代诞生开始,纳粹军装就成了“邪恶风”设计的基准。在知道纳粹犯下的史无前例的惊天罪行后,你就会很容易理解为什么很多现代小说中把反派角色描述为“纳粹式”。
Nazism is an easy signifier for audiences that the bad guys are, well, bad. We have seen it time and time again in film. Take George Lucas's The Empire Strikes Back, for example. The Galactic Empire in their military-style getups could easily be mistaken for being Third Reich.
纳粹主义是一种向观众表示坏人形象的简单方式,因为,他们已经坏透顶了。我们也能在经常在电影中看到这样的描述。以乔治·卢卡斯的星球大战Ⅱ:帝国反击战为例,当看到银河帝国的军队服装样式时,很容易把他们错当成第三帝国军。
Lucas has even admitted as much: "The Nazis are basically the same costume as we used in the first film, and they are designed to be very authoritarian, very Empire-like."
卢卡斯自己也承认说:“纳粹的军服和我们在第一部电影中用到的服装大致相同,不得不说,他们的服装非常有帝国独裁主义的风范。”

8.Coco Chanel

8.可可·香奈儿

Nazi

When Hitler's men began invading Europe, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was already an established and respected fashion designer. Better known by her nickname "Coco," she had pioneered the svelte and iconic "little black dress." But the Nazi occupation of France was to catapult her to superstardom. And in the most unusual way.

在希特勒开始占领欧洲之时,加布里埃·可可·香奈儿就已经是一位小有成就且备受尊敬的时装设计师了。以能展现曲线魅力的“小黑裙”为标志,香奈儿凭借着其小名“Coco”闻名。而纳粹占领法国可谓是她成为超级明星路上的关键,也是最出乎意料的方式。
Instead of resisting or going into hiding, Chanel decided—effectively—to embrace Nazi rule. She took a German lover by the name of Hans Gunther von Dincklage and became a spy, helping recruit for the Third Reich.
没有抵制,也没有到处躲躲藏藏,香奈儿最终决定去接受并慢慢适应纳粹的规矩。她与盖世太保高级将领兼情报专家冯·丁克拉格男爵相爱,并成为一名纳粹间谍,为第三帝国获取情报。
After the war ended, far from being shunned for her behavior, Chanel was quickly established as the foremost French fashion designer of the day. And she wasted no time in building her empire. If anything, the rumors of her association with Nazi Germany gave the Chanel brand publicity and even, strangely, an air of mystique and invulnerability.
战争结束后,香奈儿不但没有因为可以避开这一段过往,反而以当时法国最有影响力的服装设计师的身份迅速建立了“香奈儿”品牌。在建立“香奈儿王国”的过程中她也丝毫没有迟疑。如果真要说香奈儿与纳粹德国的关系有什么影响的话,更多的是给香奈儿这个品牌更好的宣传,甚至说增加了一丝神圣不可侵犯的神秘感。

7.Toothbrush Mustaches

7.牙刷式小胡子

Nazi

It seems ridiculous now, but people once loved the toothbrush mustache. Were it not for Adolf Hitler's adoption of it, we might see it adorning the upper lips of men today. Pre-Fuhrer, it was a popular style of mustache. Oliver Hardy and Charlie Chaplin—two of the biggest stars in the world at the time—both wore one with pride and inspired men across the world to follow suit.

虽然现在看来牙刷式小胡子很滑稽,但是它却曾经一度备受人们喜爱。要不是因为希特勒,如今我们也会觉得它作为一种装饰性胡须还挺不错的。至少,在希特勒时代,可以称得上是一种时尚。奥列佛·哈台和查理·卓别林这两位举世闻名的大明星,都曾蓄过这样的胡子,并且带着满满的自信。他们甚至还在全世界引发了这样一股热潮。
It wasn't Chaplin that influenced Hitler to trim his facial hair into the shape of a toothbrush, though. That is an urban myth. Initially, Hitler wore his mustache long, in the popular handlebar style. But, while fighting in The Great War, it would get in the way of his gas mask. So he trimmed it down to fit. And kept it like that.
但是,希特勒之所以把胡子留成牙刷状,却并不是受卓别林的影响。民间传言说,起初,希特勒蓄有长长的络腮胡,然而,在一战期间,他的络腮胡总会妨碍他戴防毒面具,于是他修了修胡子,留成了牙刷式。

6.Hugo Boss

6.雨果·波士

Nazi

We told you earlier how Joseph Goebbels made sure that Nazi officers always looked the part. And that was never more true than when he oversaw the design and production of the uniforms for the most feared of all the Nazi military units, the Schutzstaffel (better known as the "SS").

在前文中我们有提到说,约瑟夫·戈培尔是如何让纳粹军官在众多军队中自成体系,独树一帜的。而这一点,在他对于纳粹部队中最有威望的亲卫队(通常称为“SS”)的制服设计生产中,显得尤为突出。
The sight alone of the black dress uniforms and the sinister Death's Head Skull on their caps was enough to cause terror. Black being, historically, an evil-oriented color. And Death's Head Skulls being, well, Death's Head Skulls.
就只看他们黑色系的军装,加上帽子上可怕的骷髅头图案就足以给人恐惧感。黑色向来代表着邪恶与黑暗势力,而骷髅头,都知道的,象征着死亡的骷髅头。
Goebbels instructed Munich-based outfitter Hugo Boss and his staff to create the SS uniforms. Boss was already producing the infamous "brown shirts" at the time anyway (as worn by the Sturmabteilung, the feared paramilitary wing that met its end in the bloody left-wing purge of 1934 known as "The Night of the Long Knives").
戈培尔下令让慕尼黑本土服装店雨果·波士为SS生产制服。其实在那时,雨果·波士已经在为纳粹生产制作相传臭名昭著的“棕色衬衫”(即纳粹冲锋队的制服,纳粹冲锋队在1934年的“长刀之夜”中阵亡。)
And when high-ranking Nazis told you to do something, you did it. So it is difficult to lay too much blame at Boss's door. Although he did go on to preside over a production line that used almost entirely forced labor.
但是这也不能过分怪罪与雨果·波士,毕竟在那样的情形下,有了纳粹的指示,你不得不这样做。但事实也确实如此,为了生产,他大量使用强制劳动力,压榨工人利益。
A lot of you out there probably still buy Hugo Boss suits, cologne, and sunglasses. But would you if you truly knew their role in World War II? If it helps, they have since apologized for what happened.
也许当你们中有很多人去德国后,会买雨果·波士的衣服、香水和墨镜,不过在你知道了这个品牌在二战中的所作所为后,还会继续购买吗?当然了,如果真的就此减少了大量购买力的话,他们早就会公开忏悔了。

重点单词   查看全部解释    
imposing [im'pəuziŋ]

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adj. 令人难忘的,壮丽的 vbl. 强迫,利用

 
effectively [i'fektivli]

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adv. 事实上,有效地

 
fiction ['fikʃən]

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n. 虚构,杜撰,小说

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mustache [mə'stɑ:ʃ, 'mʌstæʃ]

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n. 胡子,髭

 
infamous ['infəməs]

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adj. 无耻的,臭名昭著的

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aggression [ə'greʃən]

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n. 进攻,侵犯,侵害,侵略

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designer [di'zainə]

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n. 设计者

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legacy ['legəsi]

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n. 祖先传下来之物,遗赠物
adj. [计算

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ridiculous [ri'dikjuləs]

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adj. 荒谬的,可笑的

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pride [praid]

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n. 自豪,骄傲,引以自豪的东西,自尊心
vt

 

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