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5.Dior
5.迪奥
Even while his sister served in the French Resistance and was captured by the Gestapo, fashion designer Christian Dior kept his head down and worked for the Nazis, often making dresses and outfits for the wives of high-ranking officers. Some saw him as a traitor and a shill for working for the Germans. But as he saw it, he was just doing what he had to do to keep French high fashion alive.
即使自己的亲妹妹投身于法国抵抗运动中，后来还被盖世太保捕获，时装设计师克里斯汀·迪奥还是选择了低声下气地为纳粹党服务——为高级官员的太太们剪裁新衣。有人说他是卖国贼，有人说他丧心病狂。但是在他看来，他所做的一切只不过是想让法国时尚能够继续传承下去。
Before World War II, Dior was working as a designer for a respected fashion house run by Lucien Lelong. But the experience of the Nazi occupation of France and his newfound mission to preserve France as the home of fashion was enough to encourage Dior to set up his own fashion house. And in doing so, he became a household name across the world.
二战以前，迪奥在巴黎勒隆手下的时尚巨头公司担任设计师，然而，随着纳粹占领法国后，迪奥内心想要保护法国时尚之都地位的使命感油然而生，这一切都促使着迪奥去创立自己的时尚品牌。他也这样做了，并且成为了全世界范围内家喻户晓的人。
4.Louis Vuitton
4.路易·威登
Louis Vuitton handbags are one of the most iconic and famous handbags on the planet. When the Nazis invaded France in 1940 and the Vichy State ruled the country, most brands were oppressed and their stores closed down.
LV的手提包可以说是全世界最经典最有标志性的手提包之一。1940年纳粹占领法国，维希政府统治法国时期，大多数品牌都面临威胁，店面纷纷倒闭。
But Louis Vuitton thrived throughout the entire occupation and war. In fact, they were the only brand given permission to operate a store on the ground floor of Hotel du Parc, where France's puppet government operated during the early 1940s.
可是，路易·威登却躲过了这一劫，撑过了整个占领期，甚至整个战争期。不瞒你说，LV是唯一一个获准杜帕克宾馆一层开店经营的品牌，而杜帕克宾馆正是二十世纪四十年代初期法国傀儡政府的办公地点。
The French brand got these allowances through openly, brazenly, and shamelessly cooperating with the Nazis. While Louis Vuitton's competitors either refused the deal, went into hiding, or went out of business, they stayed afloat. After the war, the market was theirs for the taking.
LV公开地、厚着脸皮与纳粹进行合作洽谈，最终获得这些准许。而与LV同一时期的竞争者要不拒绝交易，隐姓埋名，要不退出市场，从此销声匿迹。自然，战争过后，这个市场都是LV的天下。
Would Louis Vuitton have the market position it enjoys now had Hitler and Co. not pushed out or forcibly closed all its business rivals?
要不是维希政府对LV所有竞争对手的强制打压，LV能有如今的市场地位吗？
3.Anti-Authority Subcultures
3.反权威亚文化
The primary motif of the Nazi regime was the swastika. An equal-armed cross with arms jutting out at right angles, it was once an ancient and sacred symbol of peace. Until Hitler and his goons got their hands on it.
纳粹政权的标志图案是卐字符（等长的十字符号，每一边分别延伸），这个符号曾经是古老而神秘的和平的象征，直到希特勒和他手下的一群看守们向它伸出魔爪。
They repurposed it, and the swastika has been stigmatized ever since. Such is the simple design's ability to offend on mere glimpse, it is sometimes used by people who wish simply to shock an audience.
他们重新定义了卐字符，从那时开始，它便成了邪恶的代名词。有时候，人们会用这个符号来起到震慑人的作用，这就是这个简单的设计的魔力，仅凭一瞥便能产生强烈的效果。
Biker gangs of the 1960s and '70s used swastikas, iron crosses, and SS-style lightning bolts as insignia on their clothing. Performance artists have borrowed iconography from the Nazis ever since the end of the war, too. And let us not forget the proliferation of swastikas and other Nazi symbols when punk rock exploded in the late 1970s.
上世纪六七十年代，魁北克机车帮将卐，金属十字架以及纳粹风格的闪电图案印在衣服上，作为帮派的标志。战争结束后，行为艺术家们也常用纳粹标志进行艺术创作。上世纪七十年代末，伴随着朋克摇滚的兴起，卐字符和纳粹的其他标志再一次得到广泛传播。
While bikers and punk rockers have flirted with neo-Nazism, the images have mostly been employed to merely shock and offend. A sort of "art through provocation" affair.
尽管机车手和摇滚乐手们表现出来的是一种新纳粹主义，但是这些形象仍旧带有强烈的侵略意味，这是一种“挑衅艺术”。
2.Asian Pop Culture
2.亚洲流行文化
Have a drink in an Indonesian cafe, go watch a Japanese girl band perform, or attend a school parade in Taiwan and you may find something really quite disturbing...overt and unabashed Nazi imagery on display. Those examples are all real, by the way.
去印尼咖啡厅享受咖啡时光，去看一场日本女子乐队表演，或者去参加一次台湾的校园阅兵，你会感觉到这些文化中深深的纳粹烙印。不过，这些例子确实是存在的。
Back in 2013, widespread controversy and condemnation forced an Indonesian cafe owner to shut down his Nazi-themed bar in Java. Sony had to apologize in 2016 after one of their acts, a popular girl band called Keyakizaka46, performed a concert all dressed as SS officers.
2013年，印尼爪哇岛发生了这样一个事件：一家纳粹主题酒吧的老板受到了全国的广泛谴责，并强制要求关闭店铺。2016年，索尼音乐公司由于某件事也不得不立刻道歉——女子流行乐队Keyakizaka46的演唱会服装风格为纳粹风。
And somehow, Hsinchu Kuang-Fu High School in Hsinchu City, Taipei, managed to design, create, and stage an entire anniversary parade themed around Adolf Hitler before anyone realized that it was not an appropriate thing to do.
台湾新竹光复中学曾经筹划并成功举行了一次以希特勒为主题的阅兵仪式，但不知怎么的，在举办之前根本没有人意识到这样做存在着多么大的不合理性。
Education in Asia surrounding World War II mostly focuses on the events that concerned the continent. The wider context and, specifically, the horrors of the Holocaust are rarely touched upon. So a whole generation of children in Asia is growing up ignorant of just what the Nazis did in Europe in the 1930s and '40s.
亚洲地区关于二战的教育大多只关注发生在本地区的相关事件上，而更广泛更深刻的东西却很少触及到，尤其是纳粹大屠杀的惨痛。所以，亚洲的新生一代对上世纪三四十年代纳粹在欧洲的恶行几乎是一无所知也毫不在意。
The true gravity of events might be lost on many young Asians, but the clothes, insignia, and symbolism are all still familiar. Swastikas and salutes have bled into modern culture somehow.
在亚洲年轻人心中，二战的真实严重性并没能带给他们多大的触动，因为他们知道的只是皮毛，给他们印象最深的恐怕只有服饰、符号等标志性的东西。某种意义上，纳粹已逐渐融入了现代文化，甚至说，人们欣然接受了这股“纳粹风”，
It might be slightly naive to assume that there isn't a hint of rebellion in this "Nazi chic" craze. But there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of malice involved in this superficial adoption of Nazism.
或许这样讲有些不够成熟，但事实就是如此，人们在大量接纳纳粹文化，并且没有那么多怨恨的情绪在其中。
Understandable? Perhaps. But is it excusable?
或许是因为纳粹文化很容易理解？不过这足以构成理由吗？
1.An End To 'Boyish' Women's Fashion
1.中性风的终结
Germany was a prominent player in European fashion in the 1920s. Before the Nazis, Berlin and Munich were epicenters of design and high-end clothing. But when Hitler came to power, he sought to reshape the national image of the German woman.
上世纪二十年代，德国是欧洲时尚界的领军者之一。纳粹时代之前，柏林和慕尼黑曾是服装高端设计与定制中心。希特勒执政后，他企图重塑德国女性形象。
Hitler preferred women to dress sensibly and plainly. His argument was that the true Aryan beauty of the German woman should shine through. They didn't need make-up, fingernail polish, or elaborate dresses.
他说，应该将德国女性的雅利安真善美表现出来，而只有干净利落的着装风格才能真正体现这种美——她们不用化妆，不用做美甲，也不用穿华丽精致的长裙。
The dictator believed a Nazi-controlled fashion industry would aid German victory in the war effort. To this end, the Nazis established the Deutsches Modeamt ("Reich Fashion Bureau") to control how German women dressed. Under the Bureau rules, women were permitted to wear only German-made clothing crafted with German materials.
这位独裁者坚信要是纳粹控制了时尚业，对其在取得战争的胜利将有很大的助力。于是，他便设立了所谓的帝国时尚局，专门负责监管德国女性的穿着。管理条例规定，女性只能穿德国原产的衣服。
The fashion style of the time, pioneered by designers like the French Nazi-sympathizer Coco Chanel, was for a more "boyish" look. This meant shorter hair and clothes that made women look slimmer. Hitler liked women to have a more round, "fertile" look, believing this would lead to more offspring for the Reich. Full bust, shapely legs, and curvaceous figures.
那个时候由香奈儿等设计师引领起的时尚风潮，倾向于中性风，也就是说短发加上更显苗条纤细的衣服。希特勒以圆润丰满为美，丰胸，肥臀，美腿，小蛮腰，S型身材。他认为这种体型生殖能力强，能维持德意志的人口兴旺。
And through the Reich Fashion Bureau, Hitler got his wish. It was Auf Wiedersehen ("goodbye") to the boyish look.
在帝国时尚局的掌控下，希特勒得以如愿以偿，中性风时代就此告一段落。
