评论
打印
Theirs was an unlikely friendship.
他们两人是本不会成为朋友的朋友。
Reem Kassis, who was born in Jerusalem and lives in Philadelphia, left high-paying work as a management consultant to write cookbooks.
雷姆·卡西斯出生于耶路撒冷，现居费城，她辞去了管理顾问的高薪工作，转而撰写烹饪书。
She is Palestinian, and her book “The Palestinian Table,” which she published in 2017, broke open a new national conversation about both the cuisine and the appropriation of its recipes.
卡西斯是巴勒斯坦人，她于2017年出版的书《巴勒斯坦餐桌》开启了一场关于菜肴和食谱挪用的民族对话。
Michael Solomonov, a chef who was born near Tel Aviv, was cooking Italian food in Philadelphia when a sniper killed his 21-year-old brother, an Israeli soldier who was patrolling on Yom Kippur.
迈克尔·索罗莫诺夫是一位出生于特拉维夫周边地区的厨师，当他在费城做意大利菜时，一名狙击手打死了他年仅21岁的弟弟，他弟弟是一名以色列士兵，被击中时正在赎罪日当天进行巡逻。
Mr. Solomonov, who is Jewish, dedicated himself to Israeli cuisine and opened Zahav in Philadelphia in 2008.
索罗莫诺夫是犹太人，他致力于钻研以色列美食，并于2008年在费城开了Zahav餐厅。
The restaurant brought him and Israeli food to national prominence, and he has since opened more than 20 restaurants.
这家餐厅让他和以色列菜在全国范围内声名鹊起，自那以后，索罗莫诺夫又开了20多家餐厅。
Ms. Kassis nervously sent him a copy of her book.
卡西斯怀着紧张的心情给索罗莫诺夫寄了一本她写的书。
It shifted his perspective.
这本书改变了他的观点。
The two became close friends, cooking together at his restaurant and in each other’s homes.
两人成了亲密的朋友，常常一起在索罗莫诺夫的餐厅和彼此的家里烹饪食物。
They appeared together in magazine articles about cooking for the holidays and at events examining the role of food in national identity.
在关于烹饪节日食物的杂志文章中，以及在探讨食物对于民族身份认同的作用的活动中，两人经常同时出现。
But now, they aren’t speaking.
但现在，他们不再和彼此说话了。
“If anything,” Ms. Kassis said, “my experience of late has confirmed for me that food diplomacy does not work and that you cannot solve problems like the Israeli occupation of Palestine over the proverbial plate of hummus.
“依我看，”卡西斯说，“我最近的经历证实，美食外交是行不通的，一盘闻名遐迩的鹰嘴豆泥无法解决以色列占领巴勒斯坦这样的问题。
Anyone who claims that is deflecting from the real work that needs to be done, first of a cease-fire, but in general, freedom for and equal rights for all Palestinians.”
任何声称能够解决问题的人，都偏离了需要完成的真正工作，首先是停火，更广泛的是保证所有巴勒斯坦人的自由和平等权利。”
The war between Hamas and Israel has divided American cultural institutions, and now it is spilling into the food world.
哈马斯和以色列之间的战争已经导致了美国各大文化机构的分裂，现在这种分裂正在蔓延到美食界。
In this fraught moment, dishes like hummus have become weaponized like never before.
在这个令人紧张不安的时刻，像鹰嘴豆泥这样的菜肴开始变成了一种武器。
American scholars of Jewish food describe the country’s cuisine as an amalgam of recipes brought to Israel by the global Jewish diaspora and merged with Middle Eastern food cooked by local Jews and Arabs.
研究犹太食物的美国学者将以色列的菜肴描述为各种食谱的混合体，由散居海外的犹太人带到以色列，并与当地犹太人和阿拉伯人烹饪的中东食物融合在一起。
Some supporters of Palestine argue that Israeli cooks are colonizers who have adopted certain Arabic dishes as their own, and thus contribute to the erasure of Palestinian culture.
巴勒斯坦的一些支持者认为，以色列人是殖民者，他们将某些阿拉伯菜肴同化为自己的菜肴，从而导致了巴勒斯坦文化的消亡。
Nearly 900 chefs, farmers and others in the American food business have signed a pledge with an organization called Hospitality for Humanity, which a group of Palestinian chefs and political organizers began in October to push for a cease-fire and the end to U.S. support for Israel.
近900名厨师、农民和美国餐饮行业的其他人与一个名为“美食无国界”的组织签署了一项承诺书，这是由巴勒斯坦厨师和政治活动组织者于10月成立的组织，争取巴以两方停火，并结束美国对以色列的支持。
They want to use a boycott of Israel-based food businesses and culinary events that promote Israel as one way to apply pressure.
他们想以抵制以色列餐饮企业以及那些宣传以色列的烹饪活动的形式来施加压力。
Palestinian food businesses in the United States report having been flooded with one-star reviews online, and Israeli restaurants in a few cities beyond Philadelphia have been tagged for boycotts on social media.
据报道，美国的巴勒斯坦餐饮企业在网上被一星级评论淹没，费城以外的几个城市的以色列餐厅也在社交媒体上被贴上了抵制标签。
“We tend to think of food as humanizing but when there is conflict, food becomes part of the conflict,” said Ari Ariel, an associate professor at the University of Iowa who has written about and lectured on what he calls the Hummus Wars.
“我们倾向于认为食物可以增加人情味，但当发生冲突时，食物就成了冲突的一部分。”爱荷华大学副教授阿里·阿里尔说，他写过关于“鹰嘴豆泥之战”的文章，也做过以此为主题的演讲。
