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The battle began in 2009, when Lebanon claimed Israel was trying to steal its national dish, turning the dip of sesame paste and chickpeas into an avatar of hostilities in the Middle East.
“鹰嘴豆泥之战”始于2009年，当时黎巴嫩声称以色列试图窃取其国菜，将芝麻酱和鹰嘴豆酱变成中东的敌意象征。
Lebanese officials sought to have the word hummus declared a protected designation in the European Union like Champagne or Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the tensions were made literal in a contest between Israel and Lebanon to make a tub of hummus big enough to break a world record.
黎巴嫩官员力图让欧盟宣布“鹰嘴豆泥”这个词是受保护的名称，就像香槟酒或帕马森·雷加诺奶酪一样，关于鹰嘴豆泥的这种紧张关系变成了以色列和黎巴嫩之间的一场名副其实的竞赛，双方比赛制作一大桶鹰嘴豆泥，看谁能打破世界纪录。
Lebanon took the title after spreading a 23,042-pound serving onto a giant ceramic plate in 2010.
在2010年，黎巴嫩将重达23,042磅的一份鹰嘴豆泥放到了一个巨大的陶瓷盘子上，并赢得了比赛。
“We have this romantic idea that if we eat the same food and break the same bread somehow we can come together, but that doesn’t seem to be the case here,” said Dr. Ariel, who is currently researching the origins of falafel.
“我们有一种浪漫的想法，认为如果我们吃同样的食物、切同样的面包，那么我们就可以走到一起，但这里的情况似乎不是这样。”阿里尔博士说，他目前正在研究中东的法拉费炸丸子。
Indeed, any hope for reconciling differences in what has been called hummus diplomacy appears to have been dashed.
的确，想用所谓的鹰嘴豆泥外交来调和分歧的任何希望似乎都已破灭。
Lia Ronnen is the publisher and editorial director of Artisan Books and Workman Publishing, whose catalog is heavy with design and cooking books.
丽娅·罗宁是工艺图书出版公司的出版商和编辑总监，该公司的出版名录中有大量设计类和烹饪类书籍。
The argument that Israeli food is stolen Palestinian food is a false narrative about the myriad origins and traditions of Israeli food, she said.
她表示，认为以色列食物就是被偷走的巴勒斯坦食物的说法是不符合事实的，错误地描述了以色列食物的多种来源和传统。
And, she added, targeting American businesses that serve Israeli food is dangerous and has antisemitic implications.
此外，她补充说，针对提供以色列食物的美国企业是危险做法，且带有反犹太主义的意味。
“The food community is enforcing a narrative that is factually wrong and fomenting violence against Jews in America. That is totally tragic,” she said.
“餐饮界正在强制推行一种与事实不符的说法，并在美国煽动针对犹太人的暴力。这完全是一场悲剧。”她说道。
“The food community is supposed to be a place that celebrates humanity and celebrates caring and celebrates truth.”
“餐饮界应该是一个颂扬人性、颂扬关怀、颂扬真理的地方。”
In the wake of social justice movements like Black Lives Matter, questions about cultural appropriation, who owns a recipe and who can profit from certain cuisines have forced conversations and reflections in restaurant kitchens and food media.
在像“黑人的命也是命”这样的社会正义运动发生之后，关于文化侵占、某个食谱归谁所有、谁可以从某些菜肴中获利的问题，迫使餐厅厨房和美食媒体进行了对话和反思。
The war has made these questions especially urgent, said Reem Assil, the Bay Area chef and speaker who has family in Gaza and started Hospitality for Humanity with other Palestinian chefs and political organizers who were feeling isolated and grieving.
旧金山湾区的厨师和发言人里姆·阿西勒说，战争使这些问题变得尤为紧迫。阿西勒在加沙有家人，并与其他感到被孤立和因战争而悲痛的巴勒斯坦厨师和政治组织者一起成立了“美食无国界”组织。
In addition to applying economic pressure, the organization is encouraging people who make their living through food to speak out against the bombings and American aid to Israel.
除了施加经济压力外，该组织还鼓励以餐饮业为生计的人公开反对在加沙的轰炸以及美国对以色列的援助。
“The culture follows food,” Ms. Assil said. “Using food as a conduit for culture is a very powerful way of re-humanizing us.”
“文化随食物而来，”阿西勒说，“把食物用作一种文化沟通的渠道是使我们重新找回人情味的很有用的办法。”
Samir Mogannam, the chef and owner of Beit Rima in San Francisco, describes his restaurant as Arab comfort food.
旧金山贝特里马餐厅的老板兼主厨萨米尔·莫甘南将他餐厅的食物描述为阿拉伯的治愈美食。
He joined Hospitality for Humanity, but said he doesn’t support boycotting American restaurants serving Israeli food, pointing out that appropriating food from other cultures has happened throughout history.
他加入了“美食无国界”组织，但他说他不支持抵制供应以色列食物的美国餐馆，他指出，从其他文化中借用食物的做法在历史上一直存在。
“But if you are going to appropriate our food, give us credit,” he said.
“如果你要借用我们的食物，要说明食物源自我们这里，”他说，
“If you say Israeli cuisine is an eclectic cuisine that pulls inspiration from the Jewish diaspora and local Palestinians, that is more respectable.
“如果你说以色列菜是一种融合多种来源的菜系，从犹太侨民和当地巴勒斯坦人那里汲取了灵感，这种说法就更磊落。
But appropriating our food and erasing our existence are two different things.”
借用我们的食物和抹去我们的存在是不同的。”
Naama Shefi, founder of the Jewish Food Society which archives recipes and the stories behind them as a way to preserve Jewish identity, has her doubts about whether food can build bridges at such a scary and dangerous junction.
犹太美食协会（记录各种食谱和相关故事，以此来维护犹太民族身份）的创始人纳玛·谢菲对食物能否在如此可怕和危险的关口架起沟通的桥梁表示怀疑。
“People need to educate themselves about the different cuisines, history and cultures of the region,” she said.
“人们需要通过学习，去了解该地区不同的美食、历史和文化。”她说，
“I am trying to stay optimistic.
“我努力保持乐观。
I am a believer in the power of food to educate and connect and I will keep being a believer because if not, I don’t know what’s left for us.”
我相信食物有教化和连接人心的力量，我会保持这种信念，因为如果不这样的话，我不知道我们还剩下什么。”
