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台北美食一日游

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12 P.M. DA AN PARK

Lunch time. As you leave the tea shop, turn right and continue west on Lane 180, Rui An Street, which turns into Lane 151, Jianguo South Road.

The restaurant at No. 53 Lane 151 on your right is Mei Xiang La Mian Wu (open 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch, and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. for dinner). Order the 'clerk's pulled noodles' (xiao er lao mian in Mandarin), a light Chinese-style lunch. You'll get a pile of noodles with a generous dollop of minced beef in sauce, garnished with scallions and cilantro. Mix up the noodles and sauce before eating, then slurp away. This northern Chinese dish was popularized here by mainlanders who came in the late 1940s. A big bowl will cost you $2.20; a small bowl, $1.75.

After lunch, take a long walk through Da An Park. This 26-hectare patch of green is Taipei's answer to New York City's Central Park. On weekends, it's packed with rollerblading kids, dog-crazy Taipei urbanites walking their canines and bicyclists.

You'll enter on the east side of the park across from a public library. Make your way through to the southwest corner of the park -- you can take the shaded jogging path on your left, which runs along the edge of the entire park. The exit is across from a Sizzler steak house.

From the park exit, cross Xinsheng South Road, take a left and follow the road south. You'll come to the Wistaria Tea House (No. 1, Lane 16). This famous Taipei teahouse has recently re-opened after a long renovation.

Back in the days of martial law (1949 to 1987), democracy activists gathered here over pots of oolong tea to strategize. Now, it's an obligatory stop for local tea-lovers. The shop boasts a wide variety of Taiwan- and mainland-grown teas, served in a cozy, Japanese colonial-era setting, with low tables, tatami mats and partitions, as well as a no-shoe policy in some rooms.

Try the Bai Hao or 'Oriental Beauty' oolong ($9) -- grown with the help of katydid (an insect related to a grasshopper) saliva. (The tea tastes better than it sounds.) Or have a sip of some Dong Ding oolong ($8) grown in central Taiwan. Show-offs can shell out $90 for the 'Dragon and Horse Tong Qing Puer,' a 1920s-vintage puer tea.

中午12点:大安公园

午餐时间到了。从茶行出来,向右拐,继续沿着瑞安街180巷往西走,就到了建国南路151巷。

右手边的151巷53号是一家名为“美香拉面屋”的餐馆(午餐中午12点至下午2点提供,晚餐下午5点至晚上8点提供)。点“小二拉面”,品尝一下简单的中式午餐。你会吃到一大碗拉面,很大份量的牛肉酱,上面还撒着大葱和香菜。吃前先把面条和肉酱拌匀,然后一扫而光。这道北方面食是在二十世纪40年代末因为来到此地的大陆人而风行开来的。大碗的价格是2.2美元,小碗的价格是1.75美元。

午餐后,你可以在大安森林公园里散散步。这片占地26公顷的绿地是纽约中央公园的台北翻版。周末的时候,你会看到孩子们在公园里滑旱冰,热衷养狗的台北人溜狗,还有骑自行车的人,熙熙攘攘,好不热闹。

从东门进入大安公园后(入口的对面是一家公共图书馆),往公园的西南角走──你可以沿着左手边树荫遮蔽的慢跑小道步行,这条小道环绕公园一周。出口的正对面是一家“时时乐”(Sizzler)牛排馆。

从公园出来,穿过新生南路,再往左拐,一直往南走,便会来到紫藤庐茶馆(门牌号为16巷1号)。这家知名的台北茶馆在经过长时间的重新装修后最近刚刚开张。

早在台北实施戒严时期(1949年至1987年),民主运动人士会在这里聚集,要上几壶乌龙茶,制定他们的行动计划。现在,这家茶馆成了当地爱茶人士们必去的地方。你可以在这里品尝到在台湾和大陆种植的各式茶叶。紫藤庐茶馆不仅环境舒适,还保留有日本殖民时代的布局,低矮的桌子、榻榻米,还有小隔间。有些房间还不允许穿鞋。

试试又名“东方美人”茶的白毫(9美元)──这种茶叶是在蝉虫的叮咬吸食下生长起来的。(这听上去让人却步,但这种茶喝起来还不错)。要么呷一口台湾中部种植的冻顶乌龙茶(8美元)。爱摆谱的人可以花上90美元买一块上世纪20年代的陈年普洱茶──“龙马同庆普洱茶”。



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